It's been pretty much just like the class except for the reinforcement plates mentioned above.

On the Kitfox, the #1 rib and the tip rib are different. You have to heat-form and glue the fabric around the inside of the capstrips, but I think this is easier than heat forming to a tip bow. It does bring up a question that I haven't figured out yet. What do we do with the finish tapes at the tip and butt ribs? You can't curl them around the capstrip at the tip because they would cover the wingtip mounting strips, but it doesn't seem right to not center the tape up on the rib either. Cut it flush to the end of the capstrip? I feel like that would unravel over time. I'll be doing this pretty soon, so maybe someone will chime in with advice.

I do have a couple of crooked stitches because I had to work around internal structure and had to make a call between moving and adding stitches or moving one side of the stitch a bit, making it crooked. I don't know if it's possible to have straight stitches and consistent spacing while avoiding all the internal structure. If it is, I think it would take a lot of time to figure out. You can choose which side of the wing (top or bottom) is crooked. Mine are straight on the top of the wing. In hindsight, people see the bottom more, so I probably should have made them crooked on top. I guess I'll have to be sure I don't hang a "Judge Me" sign on the prop if Gary is around. One thing that is helpful is to pre-poke all the stitch holes all the way through the wing instead of doing the holes in the top and then the holes in the bottom. If you go all the way through, you will find the places where internal structure is in the way.

Also, with 2.5 inch spacing, the rear spar doesn't fit between stitches. I referenced the stitch spacing off the spar instead of the rear of the leading-edge fairing, and spaced the stitches on either side of the spar at 3 inches.