by the way , nice stand
by the way , nice stand
chuck
kitfox IV 1050
912ul warpdrive
flying B , yelm, wa
I built and fly a Model 4. The last generation and best of the original Kitfox in my opinion. I'm not aware of any upgrades to the 1/4 inch Heim on the rudder.
I hate all the plastic zip ties on my Kitfox. If I had it to do over I would not use them anywhere except to secure the seat pan as you will cut them off and replace once a year at annual anyhow.
I am slowly replacing all my zip ties with electrical wiring lacing cord.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...acingTapes.php
AC 43.13-1b and AC 43.13-2b shows you how and can be found on line but I find my hard copy is mush more handy and useable in the shop.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...lickkey=218417
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
Great info as always,thanks guys. I am considering building aluminum
fuel tanks. I know some have failed in the past but I dont like the fiberglass ones that came with my kit (Kream coated).
Another question did any IVs come with a header tank only? If so what did the factory do to the wings to reinforce them? Drag, Anti drag bracing?
Has anyone used the plastic replacement tanks? Looked like you would loose
most of the original structure the fiberglass tanks provided?
If I build new tanks,I might incorporate a horizontal baffle "X" to provide some extra strength ?? Building metal tanks as light as glass tanks will be a challenge even W/O extra bracing inside. Need to keep the weight down.!!
Mike
mike,..look into rolling your end seams instead of welding ,..if your putting a baffle in,.. there are a few ways you could attach it,,prior to forming your outer skin you could weld tabs that would hold the baffle in place and put a square hold where the tab could be folded thru the baffle to hold it in place and also limit expansion of the center section of the tank,..by doing this there is less chance of a leak because your flush welding the interior of the tank to a tab,,which will allow more flex on the baffle without stressing the baffle and weld joints,..ie from fuel sloshing back and forth putting side forces repeatedly,
get a good paste type sealer and put it on your end caps then roll a bead that forms the outer shell and end cap lip together,,this will allow the tank to twist but not leak and no welds to crack under stress,.. I'd use 3003 aluminum to make this,..if you have or know someone that has a French wheel it would make it allot easier to roll the seams,.. the skin I would overlap on the top in line with the filler port and do a folded seam with the same paste sealer in the joint the end caps and baffle would keep it from coming apart once installed..you could even solid rivet the over lap joint of the outer skin,.. and also solid rivet the tabs to hold the baffle,,with no welding at all
because of the area and weight of 13 gallons of fuel I'd use at least .020 thick aluminum or even .025
Chase
Model 5 OutBack
912 UL
Yes and yes. Without the wing tank there is a drag, anti drag tube brace in those rib bays. There are drawings for all the wing with or with out tank combinations in your builder's manual.Another question did any IVs come with a header tank only? If so what did the factory do to the wings to reinforce them? Drag, Anti drag bracing?
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
my wings came with a 6 gal tank in each wing . the tanks fit between ribs . if there wasn't a tank installed , there would be drag/anti drag braces in that bay . the tanks will provide a part of the wing structure which a poly tank wouldn't do . I removed the 6 gal tanks and installed the large tanks that take up two bays . that required removing a rib and installing a shorter brace in the bay outboard of the tank .
I've seen pictures of a 9 gal poly tank mounted fwd of the instrument panel , I think with that the wing tanks were optional .
chuck
kitfox IV 1050
912ul warpdrive
flying B , yelm, wa
something like this,..if I ever have a problem with my tanks this is what I will build
Chase
Model 5 OutBack
912 UL
Hi Mike, I sent you a private message. Jim Chuk
I have a couple sheets of 5052. I think it's .050. Was considering that, need to figure the weight . I have used it before with good results. I like to edge weld the ends,need the same "ribs" inside as a fiber tank. Maybe some sort of horizontal X also inside. To limit diagonal movement. Maybe just Stainless steel straps corner to corner inside the tank at mid height ? Still thinking about it. Thanks again for all the responses and ideas.
Mike