When I cut my panel, I forgot to leave the tongue that stops the ignition from turning when you crank the key. Anyone have any tips for installing this thing so it doesn’t rotate when I try to start the plane?
When I cut my panel, I forgot to leave the tongue that stops the ignition from turning when you crank the key. Anyone have any tips for installing this thing so it doesn’t rotate when I try to start the plane?
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Josh Esser
Flying SS7
Rotax 914iS
AirMaster Prop
Edmonton, AB, CWL3
That’s no big deal, I always drilled the hole the size of the switch and snugged it up good with pliers while holding the switch in the proper position with my free hand. Just be sure not to let the pliers slip and scar up the locking nut. I do the same on circuit breakers also. Four builds so far and no problems
I used a keyed on/off for the master (Round hole worked fine), toggles for the ignitions and a push button for start.
There have been too many stories from LEAF of the L-R-Both-Start switches causing damage to ignition modules. Toggle ignition switches also allow for rotating the engine using the starter without starting.
How would a couple stripes of hysol work on the back side of the panel?
Apply like torque marker paint.
I just tightened the nut on a non-keyed hole and its been fine for 4.5 years.
IMHO those stories about the ACS multi-position switch causing failures are MUCH overblown. Just install everything right and make sure you install the called for capacitor AND the called for diodes on the master relay and the start relay. I have not had any trouble and the factory SLSA's have been doing this for years without trouble, and as far as I know are still doing it. Now if you want the flexibility of turning the engine without ignition on (which I have never once found the need to do so) then use the toggle switches.
Jim Ott
Portland, OR
Kitfox SS7 flying
Rotax 912ULS