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Thread: First, Build a Shed

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Gary,

    That's pretty much the same process I used, except using a thumbnail to press a crease in the fold as a cut line. It was just in this instance, the glue on the overlapping made a very "good" bond where there wasn't a glued surface on the second fabric. I think this was caused by a hotter iron than the 100C required to bond the glue but I'm just guessing.

    I will continue to use the technique while finishing covering the fuselage - only using a 100C iron on the overlaps.
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  2. #2
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    What did you do on the wingtips and top of the rudder? Isn’t there a foam peice that you had to shape? Wondering if the heat will melt the foam parts you had to mold? I am guessing you fiberglass’s them?

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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Not sure what Carl did but I used Hysol over the foam on all empennage tips and had no issues with melting Hysol or foam at iron temperatures up to 350F. As long as you don’t hold the iron for too long in the one spot you should be ok.
    David
    SS7 Builder

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Much the same as David, except I used West Marine epoxy with a fairing additive to make it easy to shape and sand the tips. No particular reason to use this product other than I had it on hand and have used it for years in other applications. No problems with the heat but didn't rest the iron in one spot.

    Also have the thin, fiberglass Laker Leading Edge. No problems with heat but was aware of the potential and kept the iron moving.
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

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    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I have recently mentioned my problem in another post. I used foam and Hysol. I had significant difficulty wrapping the Oratex smooth on top of the rudder. I spoke with Lars and it was recommended to use 400 degrees to get the fabric to shrink and smooth. Well, I couldn't do it without melting foam. I could feel it softening the foam as well as the Hysol. Needless to say, I have what appears to be a first graders paper mache project on the top of the rudder. I will always recommend that you use wood or some other more heat resistant substance. Somehow, my horizontal stabilizer tips worked out fine. And others have succeeded as well. So, Im not saying it will definitely be a problem. The foam I used on the rudder was of substantial size. I didn't just fill in the gap between the rib and the perimeter metal. I built it up to provide a more flat top. That may explain why Carl and others got away with it without problems.
    Eddie

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    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I only used the kit supplied foam on the horiz. stab and coated with Hysol. After that aggravating experience, I went to using balsa for all the remaining tips. Having said that, I did not have any heat issues with doing the Oratex over the foam.
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  7. #7
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I used balsa, not only because of concerns about heat, but it is much stronger to resist hangar rash incidents than the foam/hysol. The horizontal and elevator tips are especially vulnerable to hangar rash.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

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