Drill press tips



Having a drill press is in my opinion essential for building an airplane. You just can’t get the accuracy drilling even the simplest of holes with a hand held drill motor. Yes you need a hand held drill motor, too.


For a budget minder builder a bench top drill press will do fine. Even the smaller ones in the 8 to 10 inch class will do 90 percent of the jobs. Prices at the import stores are under $80 for a small one. That’s a small investment when compared to the price of the aircraft. And… you’ll own it when the airplane is complete. Of course, a larger floor model will have the advantage of power and many more speeds. Floor models are about $250 and up. Fast spindle speed is not needed. Slow is better. Look for ones with slowest spindle speeds lower than 200 RPM.



Throat depth is not that important. Rarely do you need to drill in the center of a large piece. Most of the time you drill near the edges.


If your drill press is a smaller version, clamp or screw on a larger plywood table for added stability. It's amazing how just an extra foot will help support your workpiece.


Always bolt the drill press down to the bench or to the floor. I know it seems sturdy but the first time it starts to tip over when you are drilling is too much excitement for the average shop. It's easy to drill two holes in concrete floors with a masonry bit, slap in a couple of anchors [Hilti bolts] and your in business. If you decide to move the tool or wish to clean under it, just unbolt it.


Clamp a board on the drill press table as a fence and you can drill perfectly lined up holes in a row without the bit wandering. [Door frames and Plexiglas.]



Cut a “V” shape into a 2x4 to use as a steady rest for drilling tubing and rods. Always use a center punch for a starter divot when drilling rod stock.


If your chuck is a screw-on type (most of the smaller ones are) Use the drill press as a vertical drum sander. A 2 inch diameter sanding drum to fit 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch chucks is available at most woodworking supplies. It is perfect for smoothing edges on sheet metal.



Clamp a plastic coffee mug to the drill press column to use as a catch all for drill bits and the chuck key. A hose clamp or bungee through the finger grip works well.



LED flashlights make inexpensive work lights. They sell for $3 or $4 and come with batteries!



Keep some cutting oil in a used Visine bottle. Just a drop makes a huge difference in speed and a straighter hole, too.


Many drill presses have lousy drive belts that cause them to shake like ten year old washing machine. Replace the v belt with a Power-twist segmented belt.(Rockler.com) You'll be amazed at how quiet and smooth it will run. Pricey belts but worth it


A circular fly cutter for wood will cut nice large diameter holes in sheet aluminum. Make sure the metal is firmly clamped. Use a wood back up board, run at the slowest spindle speed and proceed VERY SLOWLY.
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Things not to do with a drill press...


Never leave the key in the chuck unless you like flying chuck key demonstrations. [yeah, I've field tested that, too.]



Do not use a sanding drum or end mills in chucks that use a MT or Jacobs taper mount, they will pop out when you least expect it.

Never hold sheet metal with your hand while drilling. The bit can grab the workpiece then slice and dice. [Ugly red color follows.] Always use a clamp or drilling vise.

I'm sure the readers have more tips.

John Pitkin
Greenville, TX