Per the log books the former owner set the GSC prop at 17 degrees. Not sure where he measured this at on the blade...
Anyone remember where they set their blade pitch at? Or at least a good starting point.
Per the log books the former owner set the GSC prop at 17 degrees. Not sure where he measured this at on the blade...
Anyone remember where they set their blade pitch at? Or at least a good starting point.
GSC pitch is measured at 75% of the blade length. Warp drive degrees of pitch is measured at the tips of the blades. My 503 is set at 11.5 degrees at the tip, I suspect the 582 will need a little more than that.
FWIW, you're not the only one confused by the warp installation instructions. I installed my warp prop with the skull cap spinner 16 years ago and the instructions about the face plate confused me too.
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
I changed out the "face plate" for the spinner back plate and that worked fine. My issue is now the mounting bolt length and the length of the spacers inside the hub. If the hub pulls together enough to take the slack out of the spacers, which I doubt, the mount bolts will hit the gearbox. And what blows my mind is they include washers and lock nuts for the mount bolts but the crank shaft flange is threaded. But the bolt heads are not drilled for safety wire! Are you supposed to wiggle the lock nut behind the flange and somehow torque it to spec against the back side of the flange?
Warp doesn't use safety wire to secure the mounting bolts. They use lock nuts on the mounting bolts instead. You torque the mounting bolts into the prop flange then tighten the locking nuts.
I don''t have the bolt tightening sequence instructions for the standard hub. Mine is the HPL hub and those instructions are to torque the mounting bolts first, then torque the blade clamping bolts.
In your photos the mounting bolt spacers appear to be kind of short. Better call Darrel like Avidflyer suggested and or send him those photos too.
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
Just installed my warp drive yesterday. ALL of the instructions are available on warpdriveinc.com under downloads. I will also add the folks at warp drive are great to talk to as well as deal with they hooked me up with the missing pieces I needed. Mike
It's trial and error. Darrel should be able to give you a setting that will be very close for your engine and gear box ratio. You set the prop up, warm up the engine good then give it full throttle. If the rpms are too high or too low reset the blade angle and try it again.Thanks Tom. I'm a little worried if I set it too low it may over rev the engine during break-in. Or if I set it too aggressive it may not rev enough to wear it in either.
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
I emailed the photos to Darrel today. He came back right away. What I thought was a "faceplate" was a steel reinforcement that goes in front of the rear blade support plate. That took up the gap in the spacers. And for safety, the washers and lock nuts are used on the mount bolts as you thread the mount bolts through the flange. They just barely clear the gearbox, but it does work.
After setting the blades at 11 degrees and torquing all 18 bolts, I'm kicking myself for not asking Darrel for a blade angle. That is a bit of a pain. I never thought I would have to loosen the mount bolts to adjust the blades.
Jay