Best heater for IV with 912 ???

[SkyPirate]

went to AutoZone today,..an all aluminum heater core $23.00 I will post part number tomorrow,..left it in the truck

Part Number:94607Weight:1.65 lbs
Warranty:Limited Lifetime
Heater Core Depth (in):2
Heater Core Inlet Size (in):.63
Heater Core Length (in):8
Heater Core Outlet Size (in):.75
Heater Core Width (in):6.25
Material:Aluminum

[HighWing]

It sort of sounds like we are inventing something that has been around for a long time with multiple thousands of happy campers.

The original heater cores were Earl's oil cooler cores sized for conversion to heater use. Inlet/outlet tubing accommodated half inch tubing. A little more expensive than the Autozone cooler, but overall much lighter when you consider the weight of the larger tubing and the coolant to fill the larger tubing.

My heater has a single muffin fan, but some of the factory heaters are wider for a two fan set-up for colder climates. Earls and similar coolers come in multiple sizes for custom set-ups if desired. An example - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...8erl/overview/ I should mention that the width is the overall width including mounting tabs which are typically cut off for heater use.

This cooler comes with AN8 fittings for various choices as terminals. Mine is mounted with the fittings facing the engine compartment so all rubber and fittings are forward of the firewall.

[Danzer1]

Here are a few more options:

Take a look here: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/radiators.html

These are computer (PC) water/glycol cooling radiators. Been around for a long time. A little pricey, and not as much capacity as some auto radiators. But might work for some that have configuration issues, space issues or just need a little heat to take the chill off. They come in various sizes (heating/cooling capacity) and have varying connection locations that may work better for some limited spaces/configurations. They are also pretty light weight.

I would only use them in a side flow application as the ports are only 1/4" or 3/8" So don't try to flow all your coolant through them.

As a side benefit, they are tapped to mount computer cooling fans directly to them without having to jury rig something.

Or, try this: http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/heat...ster-assembly/

This is currently sold out (temporarily) and a little pricey but is very complete with radiator, valve, 3 speed fan, control switch, ducting and some interesting vents. Kind of cool (hot).

Or if you want to do oil cooling - all mid 90's Suzuki Intruders used oil coolers out front - most people thing the engine is water cooled, but it is actually an oil cooler. They came in 2 different sizes depending on the bike. For that matter many motorcycle radiators would also work and are very lightweight and compact as they were designed for bikes. Your local motorcycle recycler may be your friend!

Have fun,
Greg

[SkyPirate]

16 lbs for the cobra kit ..er factory five kit..

by the way the factory 5 cobra kit is one awesome car,..it's on my bucket list

[Danzer1]

Yea, I saw that and have been assured that is shipping weight. But they don't have any on hand, so they can't tell me for sure. The actual weight is still probably pretty high though.

I was more interested in some of the parts with it, as I think they could be very useful. When the time comes - I'm going to see if they will break out and sell just some of the adapters, vents, switch/cable and valve.

The FF5 Cobra/Roadster has been on my list forever! Since they came out with the 33 Hot Rod, I've been vacillating on the choice - it's also one very cool car!

I have yet to see the 33 in person, so until I do, I'm going to leave it up in the air!

Greg

[SkyPirate]

piecing a heater unit together is most likely going to be cheaper then buying anothers rendition of same ,..it has it's advantages and disadvantages,..advantage,,if you modify something yourself,..most likely from parts bought locally,..easy replacement of any parts that fail,..custom built to each builders desire,..

disadvantage,..hmmm ok so I cant think of any disadvantage to building my own..

[Danzer1]

I agree wholeheartedly. But I keep reminding myself that some others might not have the same skill sets. So what may be appropriate for you or me, may not be the best option for some others that follow along in these forums.

For instance, it may not be clear to some that these are side flow installations (must be)! They need to be piped to provide positive pressure through the radiator to minimize the chance of a bubble creating an airlock, need a place to burp all the air once installed, need to know the right way to plumb a tee so as not to create opposing flow situations, etc. etc.....

[av8rps]

I used a heater control valve from a 1976 dodge in my kitfox and it works great. Don't have part number handy, but will hopefully be able to find it. I recall it also cured the heater hose size difference issue

[HighWing]

Until bill posted his picture of his Ace valve, I never considered that. Then with others posting that they only close in late spring for summer flying, a cable would probably be redundant extra weight. Pretty much a no brainer if you are only going to actuate it twice a year.

[Danzer1]

Sorry, but I firmly disagree with PEX valves and some other domestic water valves. Pex systems are designed for low temperature radiant heating systems. The water rarely exceeds 120 deg. F. Most domestic water heating systems rarely exceed 140 deg. F. Very many PEX valves (and others) are only rated for 200 deg. F.

Many engine cooling systems can reach 240 deg. F or even higher!

While we're on valves: The only 2 reasons you might need a valve are:

1. Without a valve and your fans off - all thats left is the radiated heat off of the secondary radiator. Depending on your installation and climate - it may not even be noticeable. So you could try it without a valve and then add one later if you deem it desireable.

2. If you want to circulate cabin air - fans on/heat off - without heating the airstream.

If you think neither of those would apply to your application - might as well simplify things and just skip the valve!

Greg