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Thread: Windscreen/Skylight

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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    Chuckey,TN
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    22

    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    I have some detailed pics of a Factory KF LSA and it has the Acrylic trimmed even with the outside edge of the butt rib.I cut mine this way and agree with Dave S.'s line of thinking.Gary

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clark Fork Idaho
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    54

    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    Windshield trimming going well and was ready to start drilling some holes when I came up with a dilemma. If I drill through the middle of the capstrip the hole will go into the edge of the butt rib. Hence, no room for the nut . If I drill toward the outside edge of capstrip just enough to allow for the nut to fit up against the butt rib I will be on the edge of the plastic window when enlarging to 1/4" holes. All of my wing rib capstrips are 1" but the capstrip on the butt rib is 5/8".
    Any problem with having the mounting holes in plastic being close to edge. And yes, I trimmed even with the edge of butt rib. North Idaho Jeff

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Nov 2012
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    Battle Creek, Ne
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    165

    Smile Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    Hey Jeff, I just finished the windshield on my series 6 last week. I too cut my windshield flush with the outside egde of the butrib. I drilled my holes on the inside edge of the but rib. This leaves plenty of room for the 1/4 " holes. Good luck and be extremely careful tightening the screws!!!!!!

    Patrick
    series 6 builder

  4. #4

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    Dec 2009
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    Chuckey,TN
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    Default

    Jeff,Your cap strip on the Butt rip should be 1".The Butt rib is offset to the cap strip,not centered like the other ribs, allowing room for the nut with sufficient room to work with.Make sure you have the left and right Butt rib on the correct side of the fuselage.I hope this helps.

    Jeff,It has been some time since I looked at my Butt rib so I have some corrected info.My Butt rib has a 5/8" wide cap strip on the bottom and a 11/16" wide cap strip on the top.The rib is off to one side leaving 3/8" to drill hole for nut and bolt.Keep the nut close to the rib for max edge distance.

  5. #5
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Jun 2010
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    Portland, OR
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    2,977

    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    This is why some of the guys have been mounting the butt rib with the wider flange to the inside. It allows much greater edge distance from the holes.

    Jim

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clark Fork Idaho
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    54

    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    Just for the sake of discussion... The latest and greatest I have from Homedale is that the windshield is fastened to inside of boot cowl with fasteners and sealant. Inside the windshield and under the nuts are clips made of .050 AL with slight opening/angle facing up that will be a receptacle for the forward edge of the glareshield. The glare shield is wedged into the clips and secured by the fasteners around edge of instrument panel.
    As far as screws attaching skylight portion to capstrip on butt rib, will keep holes as far inward toward rib web as possible and if necessary will remove small amount of plywood to accommodate edge of nut. Yay Dremel.
    My education continues.

  7. #7
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    This is the way I did it. Works great.

    Jim

  8. #8
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Aug 2009
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    Arvada, CO
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    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    Quote Originally Posted by jeffbock View Post
    Just for the sake of discussion... The latest and greatest I have from Homedale is that the windshield is fastened to inside of boot cowl with fasteners and sealant. Inside the windshield and under the nuts are clips made of .050 AL with slight opening/angle facing up that will be a receptacle for the forward edge of the glareshield. The glare shield is wedged into the clips and secured by the fasteners around edge of instrument panel.
    As far as screws attaching skylight portion to capstrip on butt rib, will keep holes as far inward toward rib web as possible and if necessary will remove small amount of plywood to accommodate edge of nut. Yay Dremel.
    My education continues.
    I just came across this thread again. I've been thinking since the very beginning that it would be good to make the glareshield easily removable. Has the builder's manual ever been updated to reflect this change? Anyone have a picture of the "clips" described here by Jeff? I've also thought that fastening the windshield to the boot cowl with screws would be good. How many screws & what spacing has been used? Any pictures that can be shared would be appreciated very much. I sure do wish that when Kitfox finds a different way of doing something that may be better than the previous, that they would share & publish that for the benefit of builders not there yet, and maybe update the building manual. There may be some perceived reasons for not doing that, perhaps legal or otherwise... ?
    Last edited by jrevens; 10-08-2016 at 10:23 AM.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  9. #9
    JohnB's Avatar
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    Sep 2011
    Location
    Charlotte, MI
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    99

    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    Here are a few pictures of how I did mine.
    The first picture shows a strip of acrylic taped under the boot cowl. This was a scrap trimmed from the windshield that allowed me to fit the glare shield without having the whole windshield in the way.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    _________________________________
    JohnB
    Charlotte, MI
    Kitfox 7-SS
    Rotax 912ULS / Whirlwind Prop
    Garmin G3X Touch

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Clark Fork Idaho
    Posts
    54

    Default Re: Windscreen/Skylight

    Hi John, If I wasn't very clear let me give it another shot. Windshield attached to bootcowl with two beads of 3M stripping and machine screws.
    Under each nut on inside I put my little angle brackets, angled about 20deg. Having them all the way around bootcowl/windscreen matchup allows the glare shield to wedge right in to them. I have 6 screws attaching glareshield to brackets on top of instrument panel. Takes about 1-2 minutes to remove glareshield to access behind panel. 3-4 minutes to reinstall. Happy with what I did!
    Am away from home but will look up my photos for you. I have not yet tried to post pictures on Forum so if you want to E me at 747200jock@gmail.com I will send to you. Jeff

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