push/pull tubes

[Flybyjim]

Looking at covering soon and I was wondering what others have done for access to the rear bell crank.

[jrevens]

Jim,

Circular access hole with cover plate on the bottom. It might be handy to have a second one on the side, but for lubrication and inspection the one is enough. Nice thing about Oratex is that I could easily add another without having to worry about paint. When I was painting parts, I painted a few extra covers.

[Flybyjim]

Thank you John, I was thinking more about the final rigging to adjust the jam nuts and the need to get two small wrenches in there.

[HighWing]

Jim,

Circular access hole with cover plate on the bottom. It might be handy to have a second one on the side...

I painted with Aerothane and put several of the access cover rings in places where I thought I might need additional access. They are virtually invisible and they can be made operational at any time simply by cutting out the fabric and inserting a cover - pre painted as John suggests.

[Shadowrider]

Thank you John, I was thinking more about the final rigging to adjust the jam nuts and the need to get two small wrenches in there.

I rigged before covering. I set the throws and adjust linkages to accomadate autopilot. I am also using Oratex so if or when I need access I can put one in. But I had read someone else suggested rigging elevator before covering.

[jiott]

You can roughly rig the elevator before covering, then after cover for final rigging you won't need to access the rod ends at the rear bell crank (just be sure to tighten the jamb nuts before you cover). There will be plenty of adjustment range at the forward and rearward ends of the push-pull tube. You still need a round access cover on the bottom like John said for annual inspection and lube.

[efwd]

Or you can be a small guy and crawl down the fuse to do the work. Im getting older now and I think I may be putting the inspection panel on in a few more years.

[SilverFox5]

Jim,

Circular access hole with cover plate on the bottom. It might be handy to have a second one on the side, but for lubrication and inspection the one is enough. Nice thing about Oratex is that I could easily add another without having to worry about paint. When I was painting parts, I painted a few extra covers.

Anyone know what lubricant Kitfox recommends to use on the push pull tube? Or is just the Teflon bushing good without lubricant?

Joe Leeman
KF5
Wisconsin

[DesertFox4]

LPS-1 on all push/pull Heims joints, control pivots, pedals, flapperon brackets. Doesn’t attract dirt. Lock-ease also works very well. Used both for years with good results. Actually lean toward the Lock-Ease last 5 years or so. Always easy to find locally.

6940D2ED-9E29-4632-AFBE-B67A8B2C09C4.jpeg
Product OverviewThe greaseless lubricant that penetrates quickly, displaces moisture and will not attract dust or dirt.Safe on paint, fabric and most plastics.

• Dry film lubricant
• Provides a dry, thin, lubricating film
• Resists oil, dust and dirt build-up
• Ideal for delicate mechanisms
• Removes carbon build-up from surfaces
• Displaces moisture

45767E89-A979-49FD-BCBF-79680424AD8B.jpeg
Product OverviewLock-Ease Graphited Lock Fluid Protects against sticking, rust and freezing. AGS Lock-Ease makes locks work easier year-round. Helps seal out moisture from working parts, providing maximum protection against freezing. The special ?carrier? then evaporates, leaving a graphited long-wearing film. After evaporation, it will not run, even in hottest climates and won?t harden at sub-zero temps. Suggested applications: all types of locks, household appliances, tools, guns, reels and other fine mechanisms.

• Protects against sticking, rust and freezing
• Enters as a rapid penetrant, coating lock mechanism
• Rapidly penetrates, coating all lock parts

[jiott]

I thought the build manual calls for Tri-Flow lubricant for all rod ends. Am I wrong?