Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

[Jerrytex]

Reminder to make sure the Modification has been done on the older rudder pedal torque tubes. Its a shame that a perfectly good airplane got trashed for a relatively minor modification.

So glad that no one was injured.

https://app.ntsb.gov/pdfgenerator/Re...ctual&IType=LA

[Shane Alley]

It wasn't trashed. I purchased it from the insurance company and repaired it. I am flying it again!!

[beeryboats]

Two questions. First will the new torque tube kit the 1994 IV aircraft? And is it really a cure to the problem?
P/N?

[Shane Alley]

Yes the new rudder pedals will fit the 1994 IV
You have to call kitfox and they will make them for you.
I just replaced the right pedal Assy. That is only one susceptible to breaking if you fly from the left seat.

[beeryboats]

Yes the new rudder pedals will fit the 1994 IV
You have to call kitfox and they will make them for you.
I just replaced the right pedal Assy. That is only one susceptible to breaking if you fly from the left seat.

If I may be so bold, how much did it cost?
Never mind, I just called, $185 per side. Youch! I may just do the one side too!

[beeryboats]

After more research I may try a weld repair instead of replace. What's funny is very few do the approved repair, sheet metal, glue, and rivets. Most go for gussets and welding. At least that's what I found on the forums. I like the idea. But how "legal" is a weld repair if the SB calls for rivets? Which goes back to a post I put out last night. If I've done a bunch of upgrades to an aircraft not touched in 20+ years, what log book entries are needed?

[dholly]

It wasn't trashed. I purchased it from the insurance company and repaired it. I am flying it again!!

Glad to hear it, that was a nice plane and based at my airport. I talked to the previous owner about the SB after my KF4-1200 rudder pedal failed (left pedal, left seat), I guess he didn't take it seriously.

[beeryboats]

I started removing the rudder torque tubes but I thought the bolt head at the end came out and you were done. Guess not! Please don't tell me I have to take out the screws holding the pivot points to the floor.

[Dave S]

Jay,

Yeah.....the bolt goes through a plastic bushing (which you can only see the collar of) which the torque tube rotates on with a washer and nyloc nut on the other end to secure the bushing to the aluminum angle.

The idea is so the friction is between the larger plastic bushing and inside of the torque tube rather than wearing on the tiny bolt.

[beeryboats]

Jay,

Yeah.....the bolt goes through a plastic bushing (which you can only see the collar of) which the torque tube rotates on with a washer and nyloc nut on the other end to secure the bushing to the aluminum angle.

The idea is so the friction is between the larger plastic bushing and inside of the torque tube rather than wearing on the tiny bolt.

So how do you get the darn things out? From what I can see the alum. pivot points have lock nuts on the back side. To get to the inner nuts you have to unskin the front of the belly.

Never mind. I found a seven year old post that had one entry out of four pages where it was explained how to remove the outer pivot and pull out of the bushing.