Help needed with new Warp drive on my 582

[t j]

Warp doesn't use safety wire to secure the mounting bolts. They use lock nuts on the mounting bolts instead. You torque the mounting bolts into the prop flange then tighten the locking nuts.

I don''t have the bolt tightening sequence instructions for the standard hub. Mine is the HPL hub and those instructions are to torque the mounting bolts first, then torque the blade clamping bolts.

In your photos the mounting bolt spacers appear to be kind of short. Better call Darrel like Avidflyer suggested and or send him those photos too.

[ppilotmike]

Just installed my warp drive yesterday. ALL of the instructions are available on warpdriveinc.com under downloads. I will also add the folks at warp drive are great to talk to as well as deal with they hooked me up with the missing pieces I needed. Mike

[t j]

Thanks Tom. I'm a little worried if I set it too low it may over rev the engine during break-in. Or if I set it too aggressive it may not rev enough to wear it in either.

It's trial and error. Darrel should be able to give you a setting that will be very close for your engine and gear box ratio. You set the prop up, warm up the engine good then give it full throttle. If the rpms are too high or too low reset the blade angle and try it again.

[beeryboats]

It's trial and error. Darrel should be able to give you a setting that will be very close for your engine and gear box ratio. You set the prop up, warm up the engine good then give it full throttle. If the rpms are too high or too low reset the blade angle and try it again.

I emailed the photos to Darrel today. He came back right away. What I thought was a "faceplate" was a steel reinforcement that goes in front of the rear blade support plate. That took up the gap in the spacers. And for safety, the washers and lock nuts are used on the mount bolts as you thread the mount bolts through the flange. They just barely clear the gearbox, but it does work.

After setting the blades at 11 degrees and torquing all 18 bolts, I'm kicking myself for not asking Darrel for a blade angle. That is a bit of a pain. I never thought I would have to loosen the mount bolts to adjust the blades.
Jay

[Rodney]

Don't expect to get your blade pitch right the first time. Pitch depends a lot on how you like to fly. Want to play STOL or cruise or something in between??

Warpdrive props are very easy to set. I did mine about three or four times before I got it "just right." Mine is a 912 ULS, but I 'm sure there must be recommended rpms for the 582. I kept easing mine back a 1/2 degree at a time until I was happy with the climb and cruise. So nice to have a prop that we can setup ourselves.

Regards
Rodney

[beeryboats]

Don't expect to get your blade pitch right the first time. Pitch depends a lot on how you like to fly. Want to play STOL or cruise or something in between??

Warpdrive props are very easy to set. I did mine about three or four times before I got it "just right." Mine is a 912 ULS, but I 'm sure there must be recommended rpms for the 582. I kept easing mine back a 1/2 degree at a time until I was happy with the climb and cruise. So nice to have a prop that we can setup ourselves.

Regards
Rodney

Down to the 1/2 degree? I was lucky to keep the bubble between the lines just set at a whole degree number. It was so hard to twist the blade without it jumping clear out of sight. If I had one of those big blade wrenches they use to twist aluminum props I could be more exact, but just twisting with my hands is tough.

[t j]

I made a big blade wrench out of plywood about 3 or four inches wide by 3 feet long.. Cut out a profile of the blade on one end.