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Thread: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

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  1. #1
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Nice Wheels. Im glad I am not the only one not interested in the wiring. I hope that the fact that I have Garmin harness' coming means I can get through it relatively easy.
    Eddie
    Eddie Forward
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  2. #2
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    The Dynon install went well. Having some trouble with the oil pressure sensor but I think its because we didn't do an oil purge yet so there isn't really any pressure on the sender. But here are some pix. No didn't start it because of a minor yet annoying feature of buying a new engine. New engines don't fit older prop hubs. There is yet another change and yes, another part to buy and yes, another wait and yes more money to spend and yes, I"m b**ching. and yes, never feel sorry for a guy with an airplane project.
    Can you find waldo or anything glaringly stupid in this pic. Be brutal you may save my insurance company from buying my wife a new mercedes.
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  3. #3
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Wheels,


    I think we can all relate to how one thing leads to another; and, but we always prevail.


    A couple considerations, which you may already have plans for.


    The EAA tech counselors pretty consistently recommended the use of cushion clamps rather than zip ties on the engine mount tubes. The rationale is that the nylon zip ties in combination with the normal amount of engine vibration can result in the nylon ties wearing through the finish (powder coat or paint) and instigating problems down the road (rust or cracks). Can't tell for sure from the photo but it looks like there may be a zip tie securing a fuel hose to the engine mount frame.


    I don't see fire sleeves on the fuel and oil hoses. Maybe they are not installed yet; but, certainly a good idea. In addition to providing some additional time in the event of an under cowl fire, they also provide abrasion resistance.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

  4. #4
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Dave S,
    Thanks, you are right. I didn't think about the Zip ties and they are a problem. I'll get some cushion clamps, and re do that. The Firesleeve is a must and I can't tell you why it isn't installed. Except that the Mechanic did some work while I was at the parts supply, so when I returned, presto. Do you think I can just split the firesleeve and zip tie, / clamp it to the required fuel lines, or should I break the fuel line connection and sleeve the hose. (worried about barbed fittings) maybe I'll buy more fuel line and re-do the manifold. I"ll listen to you, my wife doesn't want the mercedes.

  5. #5
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Its perfectly OK to use zip ties if you first wrap the steel tubing with a cushioning tape, like the silicone rescue tape. I think it makes a much neater installation (I realize I could have done a much neater job of applying the tape) than a bunch of adel clamps all over the place. Just a personal opinion.

    I think by splitting the firesleeve and then zip tieing it closed would drastically reduce its effectiveness in cas of fire.
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    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  6. #6
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Just my 2 cents opinion about zip-ties. I know that the prevailing wisdom among many aircraft mechanics and others is that they are a poor choice, at best, for use in the engine compartment. First of all, there are cheap, maybe not so good zip ties, and then there are very good ones. One of my favorites are those made by Thomas & Betts (T&B) that have a small stainless steel insert allowing a more infinite range of adjustment as well as a very strong & reliable grip. The black UV resistant ones are the only kind I use. It's interesting to note that Rotax, for example, uses a lot of wire ties on their new engines as sent out from the factory, and they are not nearly as nice as the T&B ones. These are not there for temporarily securing the hoses, ignition wires, etc., as far as I know. They are meant to remain and be used that way on the operating engine. Of course, when using them on engine mount tubing and other similar situations, it's good practice - mandatory in my opinion - to protect the tube with a couple of wraps of something like a urethane anti-abrasion tape - that's what I use. FWIW, I had T&B wire ties all over my engine compartment on my OSH award-winning T-18, and the vast majority of them were still the original ones installed about 28 years and over 1300 hours ago, when I recently sold the airplane. They are a lightweight, easily installed item that are fine to use, in my humble opinion, if they are of good quality and used properly. It seems that there are probably many who wouldn't agree with that. I do use a lot of Adel clamps also.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  7. #7
    Administrator DesertFox4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I used the blue (also available in black) heat resistant cable ties from SteinAir in the engine compartment. Search cable ties on their site. Various lengths available. I chose blue so my DAR could see the difference easily from the plain black ones. I still have some temporary non-heat resistance ties to replace before the inspection.

    E1854F96-D2F3-45BB-81A8-FC09D812DE77.jpg


    DesertFox4
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Dusty's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Can a new engine be ordered with the early prop hub or a multi fit pattern.
    I may have to replace my motor soon

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