Hi Ross,
PM inbound so I don't ruin Eddie's thread any more.
Hi Ross,
PM inbound so I don't ruin Eddie's thread any more.
I certainly don't worry about a thread. It is just where I ask my own questions. I learn a bunch by your communicating hear or elswhere.
Sometimes I learn stuff I dont want to. Like about this $1000 dongle. WHAT!?
It is so annoying to find out about "back stage "costs associated with operating this technology stuff after you have invested. Guess I will be doing some research again. Last time it was all my Garmin stuff.
Eddie
That $1000 dongle was part of my cost analysis that said it would take me 10 years of flying to recoup the cost associated with the iS engine. The carburetors suddenly became easier to deal with. Besides I've owned two British sports cars, with SU and Stromberg carbs, way back when.
- Gary
S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon
Whew! I had a little stroke there.
Eddie,
To ease your blood pressure a bit.... at each 100hrly I call in to my local LAME who specialises in Rotax and he is happy to download the data for me (using his dongle). I can then look through the data using the program that is free to download.
This costs me about half and hour labour each 100hr.
One of my issues is that the Rotax Schedule requires the data to be downloaded each 100hr - so I am wondering if the Cambridge instrument (which I understand monitors the data from the computers real time and provides an explanation of any faults) actually downloads the data or if the constant monitoring would be accepted as 'downloading the data'. In some terms I think it makes more sense to see what is causing a Lane A or B light to come on instantly rather than reviewing it later - in other ways, I think the 'rules' for interpreting Lane A or B lights coming on (permanently or intermittently) are a pretty practical way to deal with issues while flying - find out what caused it later - after all, I am not sure I can do much about a faulty generator while flying but I can take appropriate action to avoid more dangerous outcomes if I follow the procedures for responding to the lane A or B warnings.
In short, I think this is a good piece of kit of the 912is sport but not sure what the practical value add would be?
thinking about this out loud ......
cheers
Ross
Mt Beauty, Vic
OZ
Sold to Richard and Scott Taubman in OZ, 2019. Kitfox SS7,Rotax 912is Sport, Airmaster CSP 75" blades.
Landcruiser and Cub off road camper (doesn't get any kudos on this forum!)
OK, as I have stated, I don't like electrical stuff since my brain seems to not work well with it at all. So here is my dilemma. I want a more visually appealing LED for my Lane warning lights. The red one (came with kit) if I choose to install, I follow the instructions for running resistors. I watched numerous YouTubes. It seems these resistors are neither in parallel or series given the fact that the 1.5 is hooked up to the negative side of the LED while also hooked onto the positive lead. AND the 1.0 resistor is hooked from positive lead to positive post of the LED. I don't get it. For strictly visual purposes I bought 12V LEDs that turn out to not require resistors. Sure...., I bet if I don't put the 1.5 resistor in that strange location between the positive lead and the negative post I will have problems. Anyone able to explain how I can use the nicer black housing type, without resistors, in this location? My panel is black and I like this light but I suppose If I don't find an electrical guru to help me I will have to just use the easier installed resistor ones.Thank You
Eddie
OOoo, I may actually be able to help here, as I've been discussing similar things with the UK guru of everything electrical and Rotax (the same guy who makes the status monitor).
The 1.5K resistor that is wired in parallel is necessary to stop the LEDs glowing even when there is no 'signal' to illuminate the Lane light. I guess this is something to do with the incredibly small current that is required to light an LED versus a normal filament and any residual wiggly amps floating around. As is obvious, I don't know why but I do know the parallel resistor is required for that reason. The series resistor is only required really to vary the brightness of your LED and since your LED is purpose-built for the job it shouldn't need that in the circuit. I have gone down this road (I was going to say 'lane' but that would have been a horrible pun).
I am also availing myself of the LEDs fitted into my rocker switches, so just ignore the part of the diagram below with the switch in it, but this is how you would wire the Lane A light (for Lane B it would be HIC B Pin 2 to HIC B Pin 10).
If you use the lights supplied they are not LEDs, so you don't need the parallel resistor.