EFWD Build

[Cherrybark]

Eddie,

I'm far enough behind you in the build that I have no clue what this step involves. But I want to thank you for posting the question and others for answering. It's added to my list of threads to re-read and will obviously be helpful when I reach this stage.

[jiott]

Carl, these blocks that you make clamp (lightly) around the flaperon in order to have a means to level them when you are installing the control horns at the specified angle, and also later when you are rigging the flaperons on the wings and setting the control neutral and throws.

[efwd]

I'm trimming down the flapperon nylon bearing to the required 13/32 length. The manual says to measure "from" the flange. Can someone advise, do I include the flange in the overall measurement. The flange is 3/32 inch thick. Or do I put my ruler on the shoulder and measure out from that surface 13/32?
Eddie

[Esser]

When ever I hear from the flange I go from the face, however, doing this bearings, shorter is better than longer or else they won't butt up tight to the tube. You will see what I mean when you assemble.

[jiott]

You measure from the inside edge of the flange. Then when you slip the two bearing halves into the flaperon hinge and butt them up, the hinge will not be trapped tightly between the bearings but will be able to move side-to-side about a 1/16" or so. This allows it to line up with the inboard hinge bracket (on the wing trailing edge) without binding.

[efwd]

Thank you gentlemen

[efwd]

Ok flapperons pretty much assembled. Does anyone care to share their method of ensuring the flapperon mounts are parallel with each other? I figure I could just make measurements at the leading edge as well as the trailing edge and keep those measurements consistent between each one. The manual says that the ribs aren't necessarily parallel with one another so I am just trying not to make minor errors only to need to modify something once there on. I seem to come across neat little tricks people use after I have made my efforts in vain.
Eddie

[efwd]

The manual instructs you to place masking tape along the scribe line.
The first photo reflects the almost imperceivable mark. I am not certain that this is the mark because it seems to be an incidental line of material ( the white stuff that is the outer surface of the fiberglass ) that is remaining from the manufacture process. The second pic is the tape placed on that faint marking. Does this sound or look familiar? I also am not understanding why I am only removing the top surface. Have I just not read far enough to see when I remove the bottom surface?
Eddie

[Esser]

This looks correct Eddie some of the gel coat and around the lights needs to be sanded, superfilled and sanded. Those lines are for reference, I found that you won't follow them to a tee.

Rough cut down to the line with an angle grinder than sand for a straight line.

You do the bottom after the top. You can do it at the same time in my experience. They say to do it one at a time so your tips don't angle down or up but you can adjust that after.

As long as is trimmed to satisfy you aestheticly, you're all good.