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  1. #1
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    All Right, lets see if I can get my question asked without confusing you all.
    When covering the Rudder with Fabric (Im using Oratex but it should apply to everyone in all likelyhood) when the fabric covers the fiberglass leading edge how is the fabric dealt with with regard to the holes that accommodate the hinges. Do I cover then trim the holes out entirely or do I make cuts and fold the fabric into the inside of the fiberglass leading edge. Again, with Oratex I will be using heat activated glue and Im not able the use an iron on the inside to press it down. I believe the heat gun will need to be used and then I quickly fold over the fabric and press it down with my gloved fingers. Im betting John will be able to advise me.
    Eddie

  2. #2
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Quote Originally Posted by efwd View Post
    All Right, lets see if I can get my question asked without confusing you all.
    When covering the Rudder with Fabric (Im using Oratex but it should apply to everyone in all likelyhood) when the fabric covers the fiberglass leading edge how is the fabric dealt with with regard to the holes that accommodate the hinges. Do I cover then trim the holes out entirely or do I make cuts and fold the fabric into the inside of the fiberglass leading edge. Again, with Oratex I will be using heat activated glue and Im not able the use an iron on the inside to press it down. I believe the heat gun will need to be used and then I quickly fold over the fabric and press it down with my gloved fingers. Im betting John will be able to advise me.
    Eddie
    Eddie,
    The way I did it was to cover the surface & then cut out the openings with an Exacto blade. There is plenty of glued-down surface area around the cutouts, so it's not a structural consideration really. To secure & clean up edges like that, I took a small brush & applied some matching paint right on the edges of the cutout... not necessary at all, but it made me feel good.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  3. #3
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Thank You John.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Taking notes because covering with Oratex is my plan as well.
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  5. #5
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Oratex or Polyfiber, I think john's advice is good.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  6. #6
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Im looking to purchase the small black round rocker switches that Kitfox has been installing on their panels. I find them as inexpensive as 50 cents a piece. They are marketed as automotive/marine but they are 12v AC. I have a vertical power box and they tell me I can use any switch I like as they will only be notifying the VP that I want the power on to the items that I wire to the VP such as Nav lights. I also find the similar switch as a 12v DC but they don't have the labeling that I want or they have an LED in them. Any reason you can think of that I can't use the AC versions instead of the DCs that I don't like?

  7. #7
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    As it is my opinion that this panel is a work of art I aim to replicate it. If the owner of N65ZC is reading, I am sorry, but I hope your flattered. Your aircraft is everything I want. Anyhow, these are the switches mentioned above.
    Eddie
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Quote Originally Posted by efwd View Post
    Im looking to purchase the small black round rocker switches that Kitfox has been installing on their panels. I find them as inexpensive as 50 cents a piece. They are marketed as automotive/marine but they are 12v AC. I have a vertical power box and they tell me I can use any switch I like as they will only be notifying the VP that I want the power on to the items that I wire to the VP such as Nav lights. I also find the similar switch as a 12v DC but they don't have the labeling that I want or they have an LED in them. Any reason you can think of that I can't use the AC versions instead of the DCs that I don't like?
    Eddie,

    The AC rated switches should work just fine.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  9. #9
    Senior Member rv9ralph's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    It was explained to me that the difference between the AC and DC rating is because... In an AC circuit the current flow is alternating and when the switch makes or breaks the circuit it does not arc across the contacts.
    With a DC circuit the current is always flowing, therefore when the circuit is connected or disconnected there is an arc and the mating materials must be more robust.

    In your application, with a low current flow it should not be a problem. But if there is current of several amps DC the switch should be rated for the DC load.

    Ralph

  10. #10
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Thanks guys. I emailed Vertical Power and not expecting a reply due to the holidays I got one that very same night at 10:00pm. Awesome. I discovered that the AC switches also have a DC value in the description that I hadn't seen. These are going to work fine. I just wish I understood why I can buy them for .99 cents and some cost $7. I am not one to use cheep on account of money but if I understood that the $7 ones used superior contacts or something I might buy them. These switches are not going to use much energy since I am using the VP-X

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