New Kitfox owner

[inflight]

John- Forgive my ignorance as I didn't build the plane and I'm not out at the hangar but I do have the build manual with me to reference, but what is the easiest way to remove the pedals? The manual makes it look as though there are going to be nuts on the bottom side of the brackets that I won't have access to now that the airplane is covered. What am I missing? Thanks!

[Esser]

The fabric doesn't go all the way to the front of the fuselage. The nuts are covered by the bottom of your firewall. You should be able to reach in there and get them. I will see if I can find a picture for you.

If there is still powder coat inside the tubes, use gasket remover to clean it out. Make sure you mask off any areas you don't want the powder coat removed.

[inflight]

Thanks Josh! I'm going out to the airport tomorrow and I will take a closer look. Somethings seem more difficult than they are until I dig into it. I appreciate your advice!

[rosslr]

Mark,
I think this is what Josh is referring to.

[inflight]

Thanks! I was able to get the rudder pedals loosened up pretty easily.

I am about to remove the motor to replace the motor mounts and have easier access to replace the the coolant lines.

Is it necessary or just prudent to remove the prop before doing so? It is an Ifa ivo with Murle Williams through the hub mod.

[Esser]

I'm not familiar with that prop. With my AirMaster with the 2" extension and the long bolts make for a very time consuming task to install. Add the fact that the crush washers are only reusable once, we are only going to remove that thing when absolutely necessary. If you are going to have the engine on a hoist the whole time or able to make sure the prop wont get damaged, I would say leave it on.

[DesertFox4]

Most props are a pain to remove. The Ivo is the easiest. The key is when you replace it that you get everything back in the exact same place in relation to the prop hub. I have an Ivo IFA prop with the "through the hub" pickup also. I've taken it off many times.

Use a sharpie felt marker and number each blade. Make an indexing mark on the prop hub itself. Mark the orientation of the blades to the crush plate and all spacers and spinner plate, if installed, to the mark on the prop hub so they all go back exactly the same way on the prop hub. Disconnect the prop motor wires. Then remove the prop. Much easier with the prop off.

*** It is recommended that you center the prop with the control switch first before disassembling the prop so there is no pressure on the blade cams and the motor cam follower. You will be able to hear when the blades reach the position where there is no pressure on the blade cams. It is half way through the full travel of the blades from full course to full flat pitch.

Follow Ivo's instructions for torquing the six prop bolts after installation.
The torque numbers are 200 inch pounds. Ground run the engine for 10 minutes or so after installation then recheck torque to 200 inch pounds . Fly it an hour then recheck. Install 3 new movement indicator stainless strips on the blade hubs.
Your done.

[kmach]

200 inch lbs is for the hub face Y bolts.
The prop blade mounting bolts are to be at 30 ft lbs. check out their website for your prop model instructions.

[Esser]

I was wondering at work today if you had to pull the engine to change the mounts. I'm not at home so I can't look at it but couldn't you loosen them all out, and then remove one at a time, replace it, put your nut back on and move to the next one? Food for thought any how.

[TahoeTim]

+1

one at a time is completely doable

you should be able to change coolant hoses too