First, Build a Shed

[Cherrybark]

Major holes cut and drilled in panel. Still have a the keyholes for the round switches and a couple of LEDs.

Agonized on how to cut the larger circles for the two vents and the CAV-13 engine monitor. After reading almost universally poor reviews on affordable tools, I bought this very cheap cutter from Harbor Freight. Practiced on scrap aluminum sheet using only one knife and the drill press on it's slowest speed. Carefully set the cut radius with calipers and did test cuts on scrap wood to double check setting. Used high school geometry and a compass to find the mid point of the desired circle. Clamped the panel to 2 x 4 that were clamped to the press table and, with frequent shots of WD-40 for cooling, slowly cut the circles. Despite being rated for wood and other soft material, the tool did a great job.

The 3/4" switch holes were pilot drilled then finished with a step bit, again in the press. Lots of clamping and making sure 2 x 4 pieces were providing support before drilling. Started by laying out the center points then used a socket as template to draw the circle. It wasn't too important to have the socket centered perfectly as the drawn circle was just a reference to insure I didn't take an extra step on the drill. After all of the holes were drilled, the step bit was used to deburr the reverse side.

Rectangular holes were made using Dremel knock-offs - Black & Decker ("pop" then smoke") and a $17 Wen with a collet that fits Dremel tools. Tossed the B&D in the trash and ordered two more Wens to have backups. Used a clamped strip of aluminum as guide to cut just inside the lay out lines. A hand held hacksaw blade was used near the corners. Then a couple of metal files to smooth and size for final fit.

The panel goes to the powdercoating shop tomorrow.

[efwd]

Looks really nice Carl. I looked all over my garage for that tool and could not find it. The first thing I noticed was the very uniform edges on your holes. I knew right away you must have used the drill press. I free handed mine and you can tell the difference. Luckily for me the switch bevel conceals it.
Eddie

[jrevens]

I did my panel completely by hand also, Carl. Also used a fly-cutter for all the larger holes, of which I have many! As you have obviously discovered, or known, solid and secure clamping to your drill press table, as well as slow speed is critical to making clean, accurate holes with a fly-cutter. Good job.

[Cherrybark]

I'm following the idea of snaking the Pitot and AOA tubes between the fuel tank and the aft spar. Someone mentioned using a "compatible" adhesive. Any suggestions of a readily available product??

The Magnetometer wires will also run through this space, with the Landing and Strobe wires inside the spar. All of these wires are shielded but it won't hurt to have the metal of the spar helping prevent electrical noise from the Wig-Wag and Strobe pulses.

When running wires through the spar, is it advisable to slip them in something like the very lightweight irrigation tubing to protect against rivets? Or am I just looking for problems?

[PapuaPilot]

I ran my magnetometer wires through the wing spar along with my nav/strobes and wig-wag. With it being shielded it doesn't matter being near the other wires. I haven't had any problems with interference.

I put the wires in my spars inside the plastic split wire loom, which is lightweight, inexpensive and readily available at the big box hardware stores.

It looks like what you are doing for your AOA is fine. I ran mine out to the wingtip and down through the spar because my wing was already covered when I got the plane second hand.

[jiott]

I also used the split tubing inside the spar like Phil. I also ran my Pitot and AOA tubing inside the spar. I'm curious Carl, when you route your pitot/AOA tubing behind the fuel tank as you show, how do you treat the termination where it exits the wing root? It looks like you will end up with that tubing running out of the butt rib and down the inside of the structure. When you run it inside the rear spar it neatly exits the end of the spar and then can be run inside the fabric wrapper on the diagonal tubing, keeping it completely out of sight.

[Cherrybark]

"When you run it inside the rear spar it neatly exits the end of the spar and then can be run inside the fabric wrapper on the diagonal tubing, keeping it completely out of sight." - Jim

Thanks for that very important tip Jim. Honestly I haven't figured out how the various tubing and wires are going to lead from the wing into the fuselage. With your comment, I'll change and run both the magnetometer and tubing inside the rear spar. Any memories of just how much slack tubing and wire is needed to reach from the rear spar into the area behind the panel?