Where do I find Rotax 582 carb info?

[beeryboats]

I'm trying to breath life back into a '94 vintage Model IV. I'm in the process of removing the 582, but I need help with the carbs. I'm a four stroke kinda guy, so I'm on a learning curve. Where do I find a manual for the carbs so I can remove them.

I'm also wondering about all the fire sleeve loosely hanging off all the fuel lines, including the primer line. As these lines are just hose clamped on barb fittings, and the sleeves are loose, I just don't see the point. Am I missing something?

[avidflyer]

If you have a CPS catalog, look in the back at the 'Proper Care and Feeding of the Rotax Motor' section and look at part # 10 and 11. These explain the bing model 54 quite well. If you don't have the catalog, you will probably find it by googleing it. I think their website is airwolf.com or close to that. Jim Chuk

[DesertFox4]

How about L.E.A.F. our sponsors. They're a Rotax dealer. I just placed an order with them and they were very helpful.
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[t j]

All the CPS Rotax tech articles here. http://www.cps-parts.com/catalog/rtxpages/articles.php

Direct link to Tuning the Bing Carbs. http://www.cps-parts.com/cps/pdf/Part10.pdf

Direct link to rebuilding the Bing Carb article. http://www.cps-parts.com/cps/pdf/Part52.pdf

[beeryboats]

Thanks guys! Any input on the fire sleeves on the lines? Being loose seems pretty pointless to me....
jay

[jrevens]

Thanks guys! Any input on the fire sleeves on the lines? Being loose seems pretty pointless to me....
jay

Hi Jay,
Ideally it should be clamped around the hose at both ends. It still provides quite a bit of protection even if it's not. For instance it will potentially help block the hot exhaust gas from a cracked or broken pipe from impinging on the hose. It also provides a degree of insulation on fuel lines.

[Mnflyer]

Hi beeryboats, you could use tyraps to clamp the ends of the fire sleeving probably not as secure as metal clamps but better than nothing and easier to remove if the need arises.

[Av8r_Sed]

It's also a good idea to treat the cut ends of the firesleeve before installation I used High Temp (Red) RTV thinned with some MEK and applied with a gloved finger to the ends and interior about 1/2" deep. It keeps it from fraying.

[beeryboats]

Thanks. Every fuel line in the "certified" world has premade steel clamped lines from what I've seen. I was thinking the same thing about clamping the ends. I was thinking more along the lines of another hose clamp at each end.

[Av8r_Sed]

From memory, here's how I remove my carbs:

1) Loosen air cleaner band clamps and remove air cleaner. Sometimes you have to work it a little to get it to clear the engine mount.

2) Loosen the two hex bolts on the top plate of each carb. Once the top plate is free, pull up gently to withdraw carb slide and jet needle from the carb body. Here's a video showing how the assembly goes back together. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sc7vlHlAaQ

You need to get it apart to detach the throttle cable. You'll find you can compress the spring by hand to free up the white cup and remove the cable end from the slide.

3) Unscrew the choke cable assembly from each carb body. Sometimes it's difficult to get a wrench on them at this point and this step may have to wait until you have the carbs loose.

4) Remove, drain and reinstall the carb float bowls from each carb. They're just held by the wire bail underneath them. Don't loose the little mesh assemble that will probably fall out in this step.

5) Remove the fuel lines from each carb.

6) Loosen the band clamps on the rubber carb sockets. You then just need to work the carbs out of the sockets. Don't worry about the sockets since you'll be replacing them with new. (JBM industries is a great source)

I hope I didn't miss any important steps. It's really not difficult, but sometimes it's hard to get access to loosen the components.