Cold Weather Ops

[n85ae]

Here's my first heater. It's an El-Cheapo plastic one, but it lasted about 5
seasons. My current one is a metal cased heater, and more the "deluxe" model.
As far as how well they work though, both work great.

As you can see I have a fairly long duct on it, so EVEN if the heater burst into
flames (highly unlikely since it has a built-in thermal fuse) my plane is still safe.

With these heaters, I see initial oil temp reading (100F) within minutes
of engine start. Even with 0F outside air temp.

Jeff

[Esser]

I think you have to be a site sponsor to post for your own company info. Not trying to rat you out. I just want to let you know for future

[jiott]

This question is more related to damp, rainy weather...

Anybody have any thoughts on this?

[n85ae]

Bulb seems reasonable, EXCEPT my plane has the plastic header, and despite
no leaks it does smell fuelly in there ... So I would be a bit nervous about it.

Snap...Crackle....Pop...BOOM!!!! If you know what I mean.

Regards,
Jeff

[Danzer1]

Thoughts on Jim's question:

Adding heat does not change the absolute humidity level - just the relative humidity percentage in the air. Like a sponge - double the size of the sponge and it can hold twice as much water (difference between 50 and 100%). Same with the air - heat the air and it can hold more water.

So adding heat will keep the water in the air longer and keep the condensation from forming on any part that is also warmer than the outside air. Remove the heat and you are back to square one.

I would not be a fan of any heating source that does not have a thermal safety and is also operated to cut off when it reaches a set temperature. Unless of course you are going to stand there and watch it!

The only thing that will actually remove water from air is a dehumidifier or air conditioner (as a byproduct of it's function).

Greg

[Danzer1]

As this thread seems to have a lot of interest, I'm going to add a few thoughts to ponder:

The Aerotherm (a fan, not an endorsement) is efficient because it has an inlet and outlet ducted to the engine compartment, so the air is recirculated and stays hotter, therefore heating the engine faster.

Most of what I see here are heaters open to the hangar on the inlet side. SO effectively, you are heating your hangar through your engine compartment and it is very inefficient.

As an example, lets say your hangar is at 20F and you want 120f in the engine compartment. The blower is sucking in 20f air constantly and has only a certain temperature rise, based on the cfm airflow and wattage of the heating element. Lets say that's 80f rise. So if you have 20 coming in you'll only get 100 out. Plus that heated air is exiting the engine compartment back into the 20F hangar. Eventually you will get the hangar to heat up too, but that's a lot of wasted energy.

With a return, back to the inlet side, you would probably get 150F (or more) out and 110F (or more) back in the return (accounting for the leakage and actual heating of the engine). So it's going to work a hell of a lot faster and use a lot less energy and time to do it.

Again, I wouldn't use anything (unattended) unless it has a thermal overload and also has a thermostat control to shut it off at a preset temperature.

It would be nice you could tie it into the oil and or water temp sensor and set the high level from there.

Greg

[Paul Z]

Greg,

I concur with your evaluation, but there is an assumption that they plug all it openings. The cost of the Aerotherm is prohibitive. The least expensive one I could buy 10 Space Heaters.

Paul

[Danzer1]

I understand the initial cost factor. I am suggesting the method is far superior, not the initial cost or the product itself. That said, if you factor in what it costs to heat your hangar through your engine compartment, over time, even the Aerotherm wins! How about a ducted return to the inlet of some of the space heater ideas we've seen? That's the idea I'm trying to get across.

Greg

[n85ae]

This was what I was trying to do in addition to heat the engine, but the
hangar is still too cold!!! So I think I'll get a bigger heater!

Actually this is an example of over thinking something at the computer. If
I go out to the hangar right now it's about 5F outside right now, and I stick
my hand in the cowl the engine will be warm to the touch, if I crank it up
it will start right away, and I'll have 100+ oil temp in just a few minutes and
be ready to fly.

Yeah the closed loop systems work well, but they're just a better mousetrap...
The simple milkhouse version still kills mice, and for a lot less money.
Of course in aviation everybody likes to spend more money so why
should I try to discourage it ...

Most of what I see here are heaters open to the hangar on the inlet side. SO effectively, you are heating your hangar through your engine compartment and it is very inefficient.

[War Eagle]

[quote=Esser;37618]A bit cheaper option....if it works as advertised:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-220V...-/181276725878

Nice find.

Also interested if anyone has used this particular unit and how does it work for you.