Best heater for IV with 912 ???

[HighWing]

No problem with the true experimenter, but a couple of things to think about. I think one reason the Ace HDWR valve was used is that the lines in the Kitfox kit feeding the heater are half inch. I have spent hours looking for a heater valve in the online auto sources that are half inch. If someone ever finds one please post it to the forum. Be careful when assembling the parts. The typical Rotax install uses one inch ID (or mm equivalent) tubing to the radiator. If you are using VW, Corvair or Subaru, no problem. The factory supplies the "T"s that adapt the one inch to the half inch outlets to the heater. This might be the hardest item to find in the sizes you will need to adapt Rotax to automobile, or computer, for that matter. I doubt such an adapter exists. If you can make your own - no problem.

[Danzer1]

Hi Lowell,

You will not find a valve at any auto supply store, so you would need to look at other alternatives. There is no automobile that I am aware of that ever put a valve on the cooling system of a car - so there won't be any available from that kind of source.

1" x 1" x 1/2" tee's are readily available in lots of places, not a problem. Please don't confuse it though with a 1" x 1/2" x 1" tee (that one will cause you cooling issues).

Greg

[Av8r3400]

I took one off my Mangy Fox project that is cable controlled. I thought it had the Chrysler Corp Pentastar on it. It has heater hose nipples on each side. I'll see if I can get a photo of it next time I'm in the shop.

I wasn't planning on reusing it.

[Danzer1]

Larry,

You are 100% right - I stand corrected. For some reason I never think about Chrysler - probably because I never owned one and never will

They did have some cable controlled, some vacuum controlled and some thermostatically controlled.

Not sure if you can still get one as most were used in the 50's and 60's on heater only vehicles, so can be kind of rare, and NOS can be pretty pricey and likely won't find one at a normal auto store - but could be an option.

Greg

[HighWing]

Hi Lowell,

You will not find a valve at any auto supply store, so you would need to look at other alternatives. There is no automobile that I am aware of that ever put a valve on the cooling system of a car - so there won't be any available from that kind of source.

1" x 1" x 1/2" tee's are readily available in lots of places, not a problem. Please don't confuse it though with a 1" x 1/2" x 1" tee (that one will cause you cooling issues).

Greg

Greg,
Maybe I wasn't totally clear. I was talking about a valve to shut off coolant to the heater core in the Summer. I already have an inline thermostat for the coolant to the engine. I have been looking for a cable controlled heater valve with 1/2" barb fittings for the standard 1/2" feed lines for the factory heater. Lots of valves out there, but none in half inch that I could find. The factory tees are a bit different than the typical plumbing tee. I made my own as I needed a certain shape to fit the available space and I wanted more of a Y shape to encourage the coolant flow through the core. As I recall, the factory tees are made with features that do the same.

[Slyfox]

Russ,
I know everybody is coming back with how they put the heater in their foxes. I quit frankly didn't want to go that route, (I thought of it believe me, even bought the stuff) but I couln't do it. I went the cheap and light way and over the years have enjoyed it. But, whatever way you decide to go just remember that the heater is only as good as the cab. meaning, how much you block off the cold air getting to the inside. good luck with your decision, one thing to remember. anytime there is a break in the line for valves or any connection, there will be a chance for a leak in the future. so do your best to keep it simple. good luck.

[Danzer1]

Lowell,

Partially clarified in subsequent post, further clarification:

Any larger valve could be used with reducers - you are looking for a needle in a haystack. But, try this:

New-GMC-Ford-Dodge-Inline-Heater-Control-Valve-/350585704301



And adapt with these:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0187&ppt=C0108

As for "encouraging the flow" - the only thing that will do that is a fitting the enters the primary fluid stream - a scoop if you will. And that is highly discouraged. Anything that encourages flow through the secondary radiator will also discourage flow and equally increase the pressure drop through the primary cooling system which could affect engine cooling. Fluid will always follow the path of least resistance.

Greg

[av8rps]

I used a heater control valve from a 1976 dodge in my kitfox and it works great. Don't have part number handy, but will hopefully be able to find it. I recall it also cured the heater hose size difference issue

[HighWing]

Until bill posted his picture of his Ace valve, I never considered that. Then with others posting that they only close in late spring for summer flying, a cable would probably be redundant extra weight. Pretty much a no brainer if you are only going to actuate it twice a year.

[Danzer1]

Sorry, but I firmly disagree with PEX valves and some other domestic water valves. Pex systems are designed for low temperature radiant heating systems. The water rarely exceeds 120 deg. F. Most domestic water heating systems rarely exceed 140 deg. F. Very many PEX valves (and others) are only rated for 200 deg. F.

Many engine cooling systems can reach 240 deg. F or even higher!

While we're on valves: The only 2 reasons you might need a valve are:

1. Without a valve and your fans off - all thats left is the radiated heat off of the secondary radiator. Depending on your installation and climate - it may not even be noticeable. So you could try it without a valve and then add one later if you deem it desireable.

2. If you want to circulate cabin air - fans on/heat off - without heating the airstream.

If you think neither of those would apply to your application - might as well simplify things and just skip the valve!

Greg