AvidFlyer,
Now that looks like a pretty interesting set up.
AvidFlyer,
Now that looks like a pretty interesting set up.
Steve Wilson
Huntsville, UT
Kitfox 85DD
912A / 3 Blade Taper Tip Warp Drive
Convertible Nosewheel & Tailwheel
SkySteve's SPOT Page
SkySteve's You Tube Videos
Here are a few pics of that prop wrench that I mentioned in an earlier post. It really helps to turn the blade with out haveing to have every thing so loose it doesn't want to stay in place. Take care, Jim Chuk
Thanks, Jim!
Steve Wilson
Huntsville, UT
Kitfox 85DD
912A / 3 Blade Taper Tip Warp Drive
Convertible Nosewheel & Tailwheel
SkySteve's SPOT Page
SkySteve's You Tube Videos
I really like the lazer set-up, it's much more precis then a bubble level, and by projeting the beam of lazer on a long distance you divide you error by the lenght to the wall...... way much pricise then the direct bubble!! but if the lazer could has 2 beam... one on the floor to set the verticality of the blade and the other for the pich angle..... how do you set the vertivality of the blade with your rig Jim?
Eric Therrien
Nicolet, Qc. Ca.
In preparation.
That pretty well takes care of it's self. The lazer line will move horizontally on the wall with twisting the blade. That same line will move vertically by turning the blade. If you look at the first picture I posted of the lazer attachment, you can see the lazer line on the far wall. Look just a bit lower and to the left of the lazer and you will see a red line on the wall. If a lazer shot just a point, it would probably be better. (some do) This one trys to put a line on the wall. I just use the bright end at the start of the line to hit the target. Take care, Jim Chuk
Ok by swing the blade clock or unclock the beam travel up and down... by rotating the blade on his axe, it's monving the edge of the beam front and back.... I understend!
I remark that your rig sit on the surface of the blade in contact on the tree head screws to prevent warble...
And what give you the degree you are at?
Eric Therrien
Nicolet, Qc. Ca.
In preparation.
If I wanted to start as a certain degree of pitch, I would use the protractor on the first blade and then set the other blades to it with the lazer. If I just wanted to dial in a little more or less pitch, I might just guess at how much to twist the first blade using the lazer. (LIke I did last week) I wanted a bit better climb, so I just gave it a guess and went for it. If I had used the protractor, that would have been a guess also. I'm not sure how much one degree difference would make on the RPM. And in the end, that's all that matters anyway. What RPM are you wanting the prop to turn. (Usuallly static RPM with the plane tied off) Hope I answered your question. Jim Chuk