Model 5 - 150lb Cargo Compartment and CG LIMITS - can u help?

[wildirishtime]

I'm missing part of the build documents that came with my Kitfox 5,
including the weight and balance instruction sheets pages.
One of the biggest concerns is, do i have the 150lb Cargo 'compartment'
or the "Baggage Sack" limited to 40 lbs? My Kitfox 5 taildragger is
2001 model 5 with 1550 max gross (I don't see Outback or any model
name anywhere sorry), and the cargo area is all black fabric, goes back
past the rear of the turtle deck, with a woodgrain floor in the back, formica or similar.

Is THAT what is known as the 150lb max cargo 'hold' ?

Also, does anyone have the fore and aft CG limits on this aircraft? I have
some estimated numbers and some older book values, but can someone
supply me the tested range for this aircraft?

Thanks!

[jtpitkin06]

Go to this page

http://www.kitfoxaircraft.com/Weight%20&%20Balance.htm

Click on the weight and balance form for the Model 5 and 6.

Your cargo sack is 40 pounds max. If you have the balsa cored floor that bolts into the aft section you may go to 150 pounds as long as you keep the aircraft within CG limits shown on the above form.

You can find the arm of any area in the aircraft by measuring form the leading edge at the #1 rib.

JP

[wildirishtime]

That's the CG numbers I had, great!

I DO have the wood floor (balsa is logical, i just can't tell) that is
BOLTED into the floor... so is everyone in agreement that i do have
the 150lb cargo kit?

That W&B document sure makes the 150lb kit look 'standard' for the
model 5 and 6.

Thanks for the claritication, not something I want to mess up

[jtpitkin06]

Caution is a good thing.

As the builder of an experimental airplane you can set the compartment limits anywhere you desire. Obviously, you would not want to load up a compartment to 500 pounds if the floor can't hold the load at 3.5 G's. However, the fiberglass floor with the balsa core is quite stout when bolted in place. The compartment has all of the loads transferred to though the floor to the airframe and none of the load is hanging from a sack. The cloth surround is a strong fire resistant fabric similar to that used to make luggage. The velcro attachment is plenty strong to resist any side loads without pulling the attachment loose. Net result... yes you are good for 150 pounds maximum loading as long as you stay within the aircraft CG limits.

Here's an installation tip: After you drill the mounting holes through the floor, dribble some superglue into the hole to create a solid "sleeve" for crush resistance. This will prevent delamination at the holes. After you add the superglue, redrill the holes to size as they will have a tendency to "Fuzz" up a bit.

One thing you might check when loading the compartment is to make sure your flaperon control rods do not contact the compartment sides when the compartment is "stuffed".

JP

[airlina]

That's the CG numbers I had, great!

I DO have the wood floor (balsa is logical, i just can't tell) that is
BOLTED into the floor... so is everyone in agreement that i do have
the 150lb cargo kit?

That W&B document sure makes the 150lb kit look 'standard' for the
model 5 and 6.

Thanks for the claritication, not something I want to mess up

I have a Series 5 Outback that I purchased (the kit) in 1999 and your setup sounds the same as mine which is the 150Lb version. balsa floor and black cordura fabric sack. 560 hrs and no issues with loading although I restrict my loading to 100 lbs. Bruce Lina N199CL

[wildirishtime]

Thanks all!

[HighWing]

Here's an installation tip: After you drill the mounting holes through the floor, dribble some superglue into the hole to create a solid "sleeve" for crush resistance. This will prevent delamination at the holes. After you add the superglue, redrill the holes to size as they will have a tendency to "Fuzz" up a bit.
JP

John's note above is a good idea. While helping with the Lancair we used a lot of honeycomb panels. The method suggested there was to bend a piece of heavy wire (light rod), maybe 2-1/2" long, into a 90° bend. Trim the short end to about 1/4" to 5/16" long leaving a sharp edge on the end and chuck the long end in a cordless drill. Insert the bend into the preliminarily drilled hole and ream (rattle) out the core. Mix epoxy and a stiffener - we used precipitated silica - and fill the entire cavity. After re-drilling there is a half inch cylinder of hardened epoxy to allow the bolts to be snugged without risk of crushing the board.
Lowell