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Thread: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

  1. #1
    Administrator RandyL's Avatar
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    Default Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    Is the plastic bushing used in the rudder pedal pivots (the pedal mount pivots themselves, not the torque tubes) supposed to move inside the weldment, or is the AN3 pedal pivot bolt supposed to move inside the plastic bushing? The manual doesn't specify.

    Still trying to get the friction out of my rudder pedal assembly. I confess, I'm not impressed with the use of plastic bushings. Won't they wear over time? I had things moving pretty easily and then bolted them into the plane: the pax side stayed fairly loose but the pilot's side tightened up. I'll need to fix that somehow.

    FWIW, in experimenting with various lubricants I've found that indeed LPS2 seems to be the lube of choice for all these pivots where plastic rides on metal. It'll be easy to wick more in there down the road too. White Lithium grease seems to dry out and doesn't feel as slippery.
    Randy Lervold
    TeamKitfox.com Admin Emeritus
    Day job: www.dynonavionics.com

  2. #2

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    Default Re: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    Hey Randy,
    The rudder pedal tube turns around the plastic bushing. I had to work my down repeatedly on the driill press with files and sandpaper till it fit snug inside the tube. There is a torque call out for the nut and bolt that hold the bushing. I agree I'm not too thrilled with the plastic bushings, especially if the do wear out, it would be a nightmare to change them. Think about it, the brackets are bolted to the floor and there doesn't seem to be enough room to get a wrench under there because of the skins.

  3. #3
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    Default Re: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge&Cindy View Post
    Hey Randy,
    The rudder pedal tube turns around the plastic bushing. I had to work my down repeatedly on the driill press with files and sandpaper till it fit snug inside the tube. There is a torque call out for the nut and bolt that hold the bushing. I agree I'm not too thrilled with the plastic bushings, especially if the do wear out, it would be a nightmare to change them. Think about it, the brackets are bolted to the floor and there doesn't seem to be enough room to get a wrench under there because of the skins.
    Make sure that you have access holes in the stainless steel firewall belly wrap around (at least that is what I have on my Series 5) so that you can access the stop nuts that hold the rudder pedal brackets to the floor . I had to remove mine a while back and this makes it doable. I will get some pictures next time I am at the hangar. Bruce Lina N199CL

  4. #4
    Administrator RandyL's Avatar
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    Default Re: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jorge&Cindy View Post
    Hey Randy,
    The rudder pedal tube turns around the plastic bushing. I had to work my down repeatedly on the driill press with files and sandpaper till it fit snug inside the tube.
    Jorge - Are you referring to the main torque tubes? I'm talking about where the Pedal itself mounts and pivots. My guess is that the long AN3 bolt clamps the pedal to the plastic bushing, then the bushing rotates inside the weldment allowing the pedal to pivot. To it to work I'd need a reamer that's probably .252" or so which of course I don't have.

    Bruce & Jorge - Yea, accessing pedal assembly retention bolts after completion seems like a problem. Can the bottom portion of the firewall be peeled back? Bruce, if you put holes in the SS pics would be great, sounds like a good idea.
    Randy Lervold
    TeamKitfox.com Admin Emeritus
    Day job: www.dynonavionics.com

  5. #5

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    Default Re: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    Yea sorry Randy. but you are correct, the bushing rotates inside the tube. I used a round file to remove all the weld slag from inside the tube and also used the drill press to work on the bushing. I also had to put a -10L washer on the ends because the bushing was a hair short and the pedal would seize on the tube once the bolt was torqued down.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    Quote Originally Posted by RandyL View Post
    Jorge - Are you referring to the main torque tubes? I'm talking about where the Pedal itself mounts and pivots. My guess is that the long AN3 bolt clamps the pedal to the plastic bushing, then the bushing rotates inside the weldment allowing the pedal to pivot. To it to work I'd need a reamer that's probably .252" or so which of course I don't have.

    Bruce & Jorge - Yea, accessing pedal assembly retention bolts after completion seems like a problem. Can the bottom portion of the firewall be peeled back? Bruce, if you put holes in the SS pics would be great, sounds like a good idea.
    Randy , here is a photo of the bottom belly firewall pan on my Series 5 showing the access holes for the rudder bracket hardware. Don't know if your Super Sport firewall setup is the same , but I highly recommend providing for access to the hardware for future maintenence. The eyebolt that can be seen in the photo is for my snow ski bungee attachment. Hope this helps Bruce Lina N199CL
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #7
    Administrator RandyL's Avatar
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    Default Re: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    Quote Originally Posted by airlina View Post
    Randy , here is a photo of the bottom belly firewall pan on my Series 5 showing the access holes for the rudder bracket hardware. Don't know if your Super Sport firewall setup is the same , but I highly recommend providing for access to the hardware for future maintenence. Bruce Lina N199CL
    Great, good advice, I'll put holes in mine. I'm not far enough along to tell for sure but the SS firewall comes back under just like your pic.
    Randy Lervold
    TeamKitfox.com Admin Emeritus
    Day job: www.dynonavionics.com

  8. #8

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    Default Re: Correct rudder pedal pivot?

    I used nut plates.
    Jim Series 5
    0-200 Covered Firewall next.
    21D MN

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