Building tips and hints

[tswanson_44]

I started out trying to use an assortment of clamps to level and locate the ribs of the vertical stab and rudder before and during the Hysol process, and found they were a pain to do fine alignment with, would fall off and move etc. I ended up just making a quick jig and cutting about 20 of them out, and they worked great. Just zip tie in place and they become a temporary shelf for the ribs to sit on, then cut the zip tie and remove when the epoxy cures. They're about $1.25 each from www.sendcutsend.com if you want to make this job easier. The .dxf file is attached in the .zip.


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[LetMeFly]

Those look great! Where were you 18 months ago?

[Pushboy]

I'm just curious what thickness you made them -- they look about 1/4? I'm considering 3d printing some -- seem like a handy tool.

[Dave S]

There are various ways to cut wire rope control cables. I don't have an "official" cable snipper; but found this method to work very well.

High speed rotary tool with a 1" diamond cutter.

I tried thin abrasive wheels first but they cut slow, generated a lot of heat and frayed the ends a bit.

In both cases I taped over where the cut was to be made.

The diamond cutter took 3 to 5 seconds to cut through an eighth inch SS control cable. Very little heat generated and no fraying at all.

[Pushboy]

I’m looking for som tips on cable swaging.

I’ve watched some videos online and have also read the relevant sections in AC 43.13 — most of what I’ve read and seen involves a teardrop shaped thimble not the bobbin like grommet used in the SS7 kit.
I do have the correct swager borrowed from my local EAA, and I have a decent cable cutter, so I’m set on the tool front.

But—

I basically have 2 questions…

1. When I create the “eye” (or bight) and slide the sleeve up tight, the strands of the cable begin to open up… is this an issue? Is there a way to prevent this?



2. How tight should the sleeve be to the grommet prior to the first crimp?




Any help or advice would be great. Sorry if my terminology is not exactly correct…. First time swaging for me.

Thanks,

Dave


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[Geek]

I’m looking for som tips on cable swaging.

I’ve watched some videos online and have also read the relevant sections in AC 43.13 — most of what I’ve read and seen involves a teardrop shaped thimble not the bobbin like grommet used in the SS7 kit.
I do have the correct swager borrowed from my local EAA, and I have a decent cable cutter, so I’m set on the tool front.

But—

I basically have 2 questions…

1. When I create the “eye” (or bight) and slide the sleeve up tight, the strands of the cable begin to open up… is this an issue? Is there a way to prevent this?


Any help or advice would be great. Sorry if my terminology is not exactly correct…. First time swaging for me.

Thanks,

Dave

Here's the tip I used to get my cables crimped. Can't take credit for this. I know I found it on one of Delta Whiskey's posts but dang if I can find it to reference. But I did copy it once upon a time so that I would have it to reference.

"I found that by making the first (middle) crimp in the nicopress sleeve when the bushing is held a #13 drill bit in distance from the fitting the crimp comes out just fine (see picture) assuming the 2nd crimp is the one away from the bushing and the last crimp closest to the bushing. A little experimenting showed that inserting a #25 drill bit in the "V" formed by the cable as it went into the fitting and then pulling the cable tight to press the three (nico, drill bit and bushing) tightly together before crimping worked just as well."

I would post the pics he put with this but seems pics don't upload right now. I did use the version of this where I inserted the #25 drill bit in between the nico press and the bushing and pulled it tight. Yes the strands open a little going around the bushing but that's a function of the cable and the radius of the bushing. I will admit that this was one of those places where I was really careful and checked everything three times and was still nervous cause I wanted my rudder cables to be right.

Gary

[Geek]

Dave - Looks like they got the picture thing fixed.

Picture 1 is setting it up with the #13 drill bit. Picture 2 (your pic) - your arrow is where a #25 bit is slid in between (vertically in this pic) the ferrel and the nico fitting. Picture 3 is how mine turned out using the #25 bit method. With your set up in picture 2 where you''re using the cleco pliers to hold it all together (a great way to do it) should make the #25 drill bit method pretty easy. Squeeze it till the drill bit doesn't fall out between the nico fitting and the ferrel and then crimp it. Once you've done the first crimp (the center one) you can pull the drill out. Remember to put some shrink tubing over the cable before you do all this so you can cover it all and take care of any pesky cable wires that might want to pop out at the back of the nico fitting.

Gary


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