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Thread: Building tips and hints

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  1. #1
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    When trimming fiberglass, stretch a line of blue masking tape along the scribe line. It’s easy to see and you can sand to the taped line after the rough cut is made. This works well on the seat pan, cowling, glare shield, windshield.


    It's especially helpful when laying out curved cut lines like the cowling flange.


    JP

  2. #2
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Those #@$%^& rudder torque tubes. --

    The rudder torque tubes are quality products. Recent improvements have added gussets to prevent failures. However, getting them to fit and rotate smoothly can be a problem.
    The tubes fit together fine until you add the bushings. Then things start to bind. Check the tubes for straightness. Also use a rod on the inside of the outer tube to check for welding sags or bumps.
    A long rat tail file can help smooth the internal bumps. Some builders have reported success with a wooden dowel wrapped with sandpaper.
    One of my torque tubes was badly warped. I finally stripped the powder coating and heated the weldment with a torch to straighten it.
    spend some time on the torque tubes to get them perfect. Any drag on the assembly will be worse when you load it up with foot pressures.
    John Pitkin
    Greenville,TX

  3. #3
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Walking around the fuselage to get hardware from stock can require hundreds of trips. Why not bring the stock room to you?

    I made this rolling parts bin from two wall shelving units bolted back to back. They are from Harbor Freight and set me back about $60 each on sale. I added a plywood top with fiddles to keep things from rolling off the top. On the bottom I attached four swiveling casters, also from Harbor Freight.

    The bin rolls easily around the shop and it saves countless steps. I use the top shelf as a tool tray to keep reamers, taps and drill bits close at hand.

    I labeled the bins with strips of white plastic electrical tape marked with a super fine felt pen. The tape just peels off when I need to relabel a bin. The bins hook on the shelves and are easy to rearrange for sequential part numbering and sorting.

    Right now is it exclusively Kitfox parts and hardware. When the aircraft is done I'll have a nice roll around bin for the next project.


    John
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  4. #4

    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Great idea I like it...
    Dj Series 6

  5. #5
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    When mixing small batches of Hysol, epoxy or two part fillers, I like to use paper cups. The hot drink type without the wax coating works best.

    I cut the cups with scissors at an angle prior to use. the angle cut allows easier access for the stirring stick and keeps the product off my fingers.

    If desired, I fold over the pointed high side and use it for a handle.

    My favorite mixing paddle is a tongue depressor. I cut the end square with scissors so it will get into the corner of the mixing cup.

    John Pitkin
    Greenville, TX
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  6. #6
    Senior Member jtpitkin06's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Those dang solvent can caps.


    I’m sure everyone has used one of these cans with plastic snap caps. They are a pain in the cartouche to open requiring a screw driver almost every time. Soon the pry tab breaks off and it’s a bear to get the can open.

    Push a drywall nail through the cap to make a tiny hole. When you need some thinner or solvent just pick up the can and squirt out what you need.

    You can use the nail as a plug, if you like, but I found the hole is small enough to prevent noticeable evaporation even over extended periods.
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  7. #7

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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    On the elevator bearings/bushings - - fortunately I had a friend who has a machine shop in his garage. He watched me for a while and then said "lets just take all of those down and remachine them to the right size". Now all of my bushings are custom fit to .001" - along with the bushings.

    Tom Livermore

  8. #8
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Varnishing the wing ribs -

    I discovered that you get a lot less all over yourself if you varnish the false ribs first and then the main ribs once the false ribs are dry. Your hands bump into the false ribs when trying to varnish the main ribs. Also, the wife feels that it is easier to varnish with the wings on the plane than on the stands.

    We have a small stool to jump up and hit the tops.

  9. #9
    N981MS's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Perfect fuel flow jug. Graduated in quarts (and liters). Clear so you could see if there is any junk in there. It even has a spout so you can set it on the wing and empty fuel back into the tank.

    http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/n9...g.jpg.html?o=0
    Maxwell Duke

    Kitfox S6 IO-240 Built it (Flying since 2003)
    Maule M7-235C Sold it (liked it though)
    RV-10 IO-540 Bought it
    Zenith CH-750 Built with 7 friends (DAR Vic Syracuse)

  10. #10
    Administrator DesertFox4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Building tips and hints

    Neat, simple drill stop. Piece of wooden dowel. Works great.
    Thanks Desertfox1
    image.jpg


    DesertFox4
    Admin.
    7 Super Sport
    912 ULS Tri-gear


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