Sure when i unfold my right wing (to put it in flight position), i have to push up the tube to insert the cotter pin to safety it ?
So perhaps the problem is located here ?
Sure when i unfold my right wing (to put it in flight position), i have to push up the tube to insert the cotter pin to safety it ?
So perhaps the problem is located here ?
Not likely, I think you should be looking at washout or the relative angle of atack on the outboard end of the wing. I found this was best done with a digital level as others have suggested and is adjusted with the rod ends on the lift struts.
Dorsal ~~^~~
Series 7 - Tri-Gear
912 ULS Warp Drive
Yeah, you really need to at least try and locate a digital level and check the washout/twist of the wing. That is the most likely cause of your issue.
Last edited by Geowitz; 04-29-2011 at 10:23 PM.
It is definitely a possibility that your issue with having to push up on the right wing is a symptom of your problem as this indicates a lower angle of attack on your right wing thus causing a bank to the right. You could shorten the back right fitting which will cause the spar to raise up where it gets cotter pinned to the fuse so you won't have to push up on it. However, you want to make sure you still preserve the washout of the wing so your stall tendencies remain friendly. This where the smart level is really the best tool for this job. You want to make the plane fly level and have as close to 1 degree of washout as you can get to maintain good stall characteristics.
Last edited by Geowitz; 04-29-2011 at 10:33 PM.
A smart level would be nice to use, but a 4' level and a tape measure will tell you the amount of twist/washout in each wing just as well. Just put the level up against the bottom of the wing at the fusaloge, lower the one end of the level till it reads level while holding the tape measure at that end. Read the tape. Do the same at the other end of the wing and subtract the inboard dimention from the outboard one and you will have the amount of twist in the wing. I don't remember what all the earlier post said, so sorry if I just repeated someone's elses thoughts. Take care, Jim Chuk
Thanks for all this answers will check this when i'll become less busy ;-)
I have been looking, but I haven't found a definite dihedral angle prescribed for the kf2. I am getting 1.6 degrees for each wing on kf2 ( measured on the front spar on both sides.) Is this correct? I've noticed on the kf4 and up to the ss7 that the dihedral is considerably less, no more than 1.2 degrees. close to 0 for the ss7. Thanks.
You're not going to chnage the dihedral much once the wings are built. You can change the twist a little with strut adjustments. I would adjust them to where it flies straight and not worry about the dihedral.
Tom Jones
Classic 4 builder
Thanks for the response.. I am still at the point of attaching the strut brace to the spar, I can still attacH the spar wherever needed to adjust the dihedral. I also have not drilled the bottom holes yet to the spar. Is 1.6 in the ballpark?