Lower Tail Access Cover Angle

[tswanson_44]

Im working on the tail access cover angles and noticed that the lower angle seems like it would be tucked about 1/4” behind the surface formed by the frame tube that runs up and rearward. It’s almost like the rib is too small. Anyone have any wisdom to share on this?

Seem like the options are pull the angle outward such that the flange is flush with the surface formed by the VS fairing and the diagonal frame tube or attach it like the manual says and use superfill to build the surface up until it’s flush, which seems like an excessive amount of filler to mess with.

image.jpg 49C5BA22-8AFE-49E8-9472-424F22E3A5C1.jpg 563ABBCD-DC08-41B3-98BF-257416DB1A06.jpg44B20651-1AB5-488C-8FAB-0404A99D37BA.jpg

[bumsteer]

Todd

The access cover itself is, for lack of a better word, "formed" to the flanges and tabs. The cover is curved lengthwise and vertically when installed.

Rick

[tswanson_44]

Todd

The access cover itself is, for lack of a better word, "formed" to the flanges and tabs. The cover is curved lengthwise and vertically when installed.

Rick

Wouldn’t it be easier to make them all in the same surface so the cover didn’t have to be “formed” so aggressively later?

Like this?






Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Pushboy]

Hi Todd —
I had the exact same question when I was working on those pieces. I asked Brandon at the factory— he said bring the aluminum angle out to match the steel tube.
Yes the access cover is “formed”and attached to that angle, but the covering material is also attached to it. In order for the fabric to flow smoothly from the tubes of the fuselage to the angle they need to be flush.

Photo of the area in question…


Flush fit.


On mine I needed to be careful with the rivet edge distance checking that on both the plywood and the aluminum.

Good luck!

Dave.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[jiott]

Yes, by all means, bring it out flush.

[tswanson_44]

Thanks everyone. It did look like there was no way with the stock angles to avoid edge distance issues, so I just made some new angles out of a piece of 0.016" 2024 I had laying around to make a bigger flange on one side. I made the bend line at 0.500" and made total width 1.250" before bending, so nominal flange widths were 1/2" and 3/4" (just shy due to material in the bend). This worked great.

IMG_2821.jpgIMG_2832.jpgIMG_2831.jpgIMG_2823.jpgIMG_2829.jpgIMG_2830.jpg

[Kitfox Pilot]

That looks really good. Mine have a rivet really close to the edge so yours is a better deal.

[jiott]

Its not a structural part, so edge distance is not much of a deal.

[tswanson_44]

Agree, but still didn’t want to split the rivet hole open in the AL or wood of the rib. It was basically on the edge had I used factory parts.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tswanson_44]

Finally got all of these angles cut, drilled, and ready to Hysol in. I'm probably being a bit picky, but the vertical angles on the bulkhead didn't seem to curve enough so I doubled the cuts and holes in them to make a smooth curve. I'm very happy with how it turned out. It's worth noting that the top two rivets on both sides will be difficult to install if located where the manual says. I put one very close to the top, and one further down than the manual says such that I could get the head of the pull rivet tool into position to pull them. YMMV.

IMG_2873.jpgIMG_2874.jpgIMG_2875.jpg