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Thread: Wingtip Confusion

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  1. #1
    taff's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wingtip Confusion

    When I was building my IV, I riveted aluminum strips to the outboard rib and installed nutplates to these strips.
    I used screws to fasten the wing tips.
    These are the only photos I have during the wing tip attach.
    I don't think it matters much as the the width of the strip, 1.5"? As to the gauge, as long as it can securely hold the nutplates and your able to countersink the nutplate rivets.
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    Last edited by taff; 02-05-2021 at 09:45 PM.
    Completed my Classic 4, May 2003. It had std wings. speedster tail.
    912 UL Rotax. Sold to a person in Spain.

    Completed a Skybolt December 2018

  2. #2
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    Default Re: Wingtip Confusion

    I riveted aluminum strips into my end ribs and put in nutplates. My wingtips are drilled and attached with
    screws to the strips. The sloppy mess with the glass in the wingtip is typical of all the parts I got from
    Skystar when I built mine. I would never try to bond to the polyester resin with 3M 2216 or Hysol, because
    I don't think it would hold.

    Jeff

  3. #3
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wingtip Confusion

    Quote Originally Posted by taff View Post
    When I was building my IV, I riveted aluminum strips to the outboard rib and installed nutplates to these strips.
    I used screws to fasten the wing tips.
    Quote Originally Posted by n85ae View Post
    I riveted aluminum strips into my end ribs and put in nutplates. My wingtips are drilled and attached with
    screws to the strips.
    Yes, both the S5 and S7 manuals mention this as an option, and I think the S7 manual pitches a kit of parts to do it. I can't imagine what the kit contains other than nutplates, flush rivets, screws and maybe countersunk washers.

    I'm planning to make mine removable. I don't expect to remove them, but I'll definitely need to if I glue and rivet them!

    Quote Originally Posted by taff View Post
    I don't think it matters much as the the width of the strip, 1.5"? As to the gauge, as long as it can securely hold the nutplates and your able to countersink the nutplate rivets.
    Good point. I'm assuming the strips I found are them (and they're 1" x 0.050"), but I just don't understand how the holes don't line up unless they were drilled separately from the cap strips!

    Quote Originally Posted by n85ae View Post
    The sloppy mess with the glass in the wingtip is typical of all the parts I got from Skystar when I built mine. I would never try to bond to the polyester resin with 3M 2216 or Hysol, because I don't think it would hold.
    Hmm, that's interesting. Oddly, the bond failure in my wing tips is at the aluminum, not the fiberglass/resin. I suppose it's not critical that I achieve a structural bond on those strips, as they're really only there as spacers anyway.

    If the structural adhesives we use aren't reliable on polyester resin, then I presume we have to use more resin to close the tail of the tips.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

  4. #4
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wingtip Confusion

    Quote Originally Posted by n85ae View Post
    ... I would never try to bond to the polyester resin with 3M 2216 or Hysol, because
    I don't think it would hold. Jeff
    If the surfaces are cleaned & prepared properly epoxy will make a stronger, some would say better joint than polyester resin. The issue that can be encountered is that wax is sometimes added to resin, which rises to the surface and helps facilitate the cure with polyester resins. It is also sometimes applied afterwards for the same reason. If that is the case it has to be removed before epoxy or additional polyester resin will bond properly. A good acetone wipe, followed by sanding and another wipe is effective. Epoxy is the best, strength wise, for repairing fiberglass structures whether they are made with polyester resin or epoxy resin.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
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  5. #5
    taff's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wingtip Confusion

    This is how I done mine.
    First dry fit the aluminum strip to the cap strip before fabric covering and drill the rivet holes, Countersink the cap strip for the rivet that will be installed later.
    Apply the fabric and tuck it /glue it under the cap strip. Heat iron and shrink as normal.

    Install the aluminum strips. No need for "bonding" you will be bonding to the fabric = no structural strength.
    Rivet the strips in place with countersunk rivets. Use soft rivets or you may be damaging the rib cap strip.
    When everything is secure fit the wing tip and drill pilot holes for where the Rivnut is going to be riveted. You need a tool for aligning the holes for the Rivnut.

    Use countersink washers if you want to use countersink screws, or pan head screws.

    Use a little beeswax on the threads of the screws. Makes easier removal from rivnut.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by taff; 02-06-2021 at 10:52 PM.
    Completed my Classic 4, May 2003. It had std wings. speedster tail.
    912 UL Rotax. Sold to a person in Spain.

    Completed a Skybolt December 2018

  6. #6
    Senior Member Eric Page's Avatar
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    Default Re: Wingtip Confusion

    Yeah, I suppose wrapping the fabric makes sense to prevent it from lifting at the end of the wing, and given the number of rivets holding the attachment strip in place, the adhesive is probably superfluous anyway.

    Thanks, everyone.
    Eric Page
    Building: Kitfox 5 Safari | Rotax 912iS | Dynon HDX
    Member: EAA Lifetime, AOPA, ALPA
    ATP: AMEL | Comm: ASEL, Glider | ATCS: CTO
    Map of Landings

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