Vixen Flaperon Update and Another Flaperon Question

[tim.green]

31.5 hours, 1 quart of stripper and a bunch of plastic razor blades later, my flaperons are free of the protective plastic!

They're in really good shape but a close inspection leads to another question - on the left flaperon the trailing edge is a tiny bit uneven. The trailing edge of the underside protrudes 3/32" at the root. The difference diminishes towards the tip - at the 2/3rds point (from the root to the tip) the edges line up.

I'm inclined to trim this off and make the trailing edges even along the span- opinions?

Thanks for your help! Pic of one of the stripped flaperons attached.

IMG_1217.jpg

[Maverick]

They're in really good shape but a close inspection leads to another question - on the left flaperon the trailing edge is a tiny bit uneven. The trailing edge of the underside protrudes 3/32" at the root. The difference diminishes towards the tip - at the 2/3rds point (from the root to the tip) the edges line up. I'm inclined to trim this off and make the trailing edges even along the span- opinions?

Personally, I'd leave it alone. Minor imperfections in the trailing edge of the flaperon will be inconsequential to the function of it. On the other hand, trimming this with precision could be difficult and might haunt you more than leaving them alone. It depends on how annul you are about having the perfect airplane rather than a good one.

[jiott]

I would trim it just for aesthetics. A belt sander would make quick work of it and keep the edge straight. Just my opinion.

[Maverick]

I would trim it just for aesthetics. A belt sander would make quick work of it and keep the edge straight. Just my opinion.

Hadn't considered something like that. Good idea.

[n85ae]

if you're going to paint it, just use a little filler and sand it smooth., It will disappear under the paint, and no need to worry
about messing up in the process of making it better ... Which I personally have done more than once ...

Jeff

[jiott]

Very careful use of a countersink bit will do the trick. Getting the rivets totally flush is not really necessary. Of course use a dimpling tool if you have one.

[CoClimber]

I've attached a photo of the top and bottom of my rivets that I set with my knipex pliers. I'm not sure how well dimpling would work on such thin metal, but I'm not an aluminum airplane builder.

[Dave S]

CoClimber - rivet work looks good. I do like what folks have done with the solid rivets - although both types work fine - much nicer than the pop rivets.

Regarding "I'm not sure how well dimpling would work on such thin metal" the answer is not very well....

FWIW - if the concern folks have is about areodynamics/drag - the rivets are such as small contributor to drag on the kitfox flaperons it is totally irrelevant.

[Delta Whisky]

The rule of thumb: dimple if less than 0.030 inches thick; countersink if greater than 0.030. On my flaps, the factory used round head solids as did I when mounting the counterweights. Since the shop head will stand proud, as will the backside of the dimple, and because a 3/32 diameter rivet head is so small, to me it doesn't make much sense to go to the extra effort of countersinking. Just my $0.02.

[tim.green]

Thanks for all of your help so far. Update: 32 hours of work with stripper and plastic razor blades and all of the protective plastic is gone! Satisfying!

More questions:

- scoped the flaperon spar with a f/o camera and there are mud dauber nests in the spar. I scraped most of the nests away but there is residue left behind. I'd like to get all this material removed - any suggestions?

- also scoped the hinge bays. Two of them have similar nests. No great access to try to remove them - any suggestions? Can I just leave them?

- the skins are in good shape with a couple of dings. Suggestions for repairing? Would filling with Super-Fil and sanding to shape work and last?

Thanks!

Tim