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Thread: Esser's Build

  1. #1
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Esser's Build

    A note on this thread: Last year (2017) photobucket, the site I was using for third party hosting of my pictures quickly and with no warning decided to not host pictures unless I paid a $400 fee. Not liking their business tactics, I declined. After talking to the moderators, they have allowed me to go back into this thread and add my pictures in. The format will be different with all pictures showing up and the bottom of the post instead of between text. Because of this, things might not exactly make sense. I am also trying to match the picture with no reference to what was originally posted. I will do my best but there might still be slight inconsistencies. I hope you will still be able to use this thread as a resource. - Josh


    Since I have been asking a lot of questions I thought I would start my own thread where people can follow along my progress and answer any questions I may have.

    Sorry there are quite a few questions since I can't call anyone due to everyone being at Osh Kosh

    My first question is that I am having trouble making things fit. The aileron bell crank was supposed to be installed with two washers in the inside of the bushing and one between the castle nut and the fuselage tab. I could not get the bell crank between the tabs with out switching to a 10L washer instead. And I could not thread the castle nut on enough to get the cotter pin in unless it was so tight the bell crank did not move freely. I took out the washer between the tab and the castle nut to get the cotter pin in with out the assembly being too tight. Is this OK?


    I had similar issues with the elevator bell crank. Even with using thinner washers it is a tight fit and does not move freely even with out a nut on it. I tried filing some of the powder coat off to make it better but still no dice. Here is a video I took so you can see the bolt turning with the bell crank and how tight it is.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHg9h...ature=youtu.be


    For the control column bracket, the plans called for a #30 drill and then for a 1/8th rivet to go in the hole. The problem is a #40 is 1/8th so the rivet would not fit unless I drilled up to the bigger size. I felt confident doing this do it being for control stops but is this type of typo something to expect? Or am I looking at it all wrong.



    Here is a picture of the control column after being sanded for those who are interested.



    Another question. In the instructions it told me to ream out the bell crank tabs to .1875 so I did but in the diagram it says tight fit .1865 but I had already reamed it to .1875. Is this OK?

    I had to remove all the powder coat on the control sticks. I didn't know what to do for corrosion protection so I just greased them before sliding the other sticks on top.



    Thanks in advance for all the answers. Hopefully soon I will have more progress pictures and less questions.

    Josh
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    Last edited by Esser; 04-07-2018 at 04:51 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Josh,
    Regarding the washer issue: I think the bolt selection was based on the overall length requirements on bare metal. The powder coating is pretty thick and adding that dimension to the overall distance can challenge the bolt that is included with the kit. From time to time, I would order one step longer bolts from ACS. I always had trouble ordering just one and it resulted in a nice selection of various length bolts in the common diameters. I would suggest getting longer bolts. Then too, I would order washers in hundreds 2-3 cents apiece and nuts in lots of 25s so I always had a fresh nut if I had to remove one more than a couple of times. Over time, I also accumulated a collection of pull rivets, solid rivets, clecos, etc.

    The reamed hole issue is because the tab has much less bearing surface and to prevent wear there, the bolt should fit tightly to prevent rotation. I suspect you can accomplish the same goal, by putting a drop of high strength Loctite under the bolt head, If you grease the bell crank rather than the bolt when assembling there shouldn't be grease between the bolt head and the tab.
    Lowell

  3. #3
    Senior Member t j's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    I built a Classic 4 and had similar issues when I first started . Fuselage tabs sometimes had to be tapped jently with a plastic hammer to tweak them into place either for alignment or clearance/bolt length/washer placement/castle nut pins etc. Sometimes the bushing ends of the bearing fit parts needed to be touched a few strokes with a file for proper fit.

    I'm not familiar with new models of kitfox but on the model 4 any filing on the aileron bell crank bushing ends is done on the top end only. Then extra washer if needed is used on the bottom end to maintain clearance to the floor boards.

    I used blue locktite under the heads of bolts to stop the turning bolt problem.

    The #40 drill bit is used for 3/32" rivets. The #30 drill bit is used for 1/8" rivets. These drill bits are a hair larger than the rivet size for easy incert of the rivet. If you need to drill a rivet out use the fraction size bit for that rivet, ie 3/32" or 1/8" drill to minimize enlarging the hole.

    You will want to get a can or two of touch up spray paint for your powder coated parts. As you have already found out, you will be needing to touch up more powder coated parts. It needs to be compatible with the covering system you are going to use. Back when I was building, the factory sold good high quality touch up paint to match any powder coating color.
    Tom Jones
    Classic 4 builder

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Esser,
    I received a small bottle of touch up paint for the powder coating with my kit. Check around to see if they sent some with yours. It was a small bottle with a brush attached to the lid, about an ounce or so. I use it for every nick or scrap that happens and for me that is alot.
    Stan Inzer
    912 ULS
    Dynon Skyview 10"
    N599KF

  5. #5
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by t j View Post
    I built a Classic 4 and had similar issues when I first started . Fuselage tabs sometimes had to be tapped jently with a plastic hammer to tweak them into place either for alignment or clearance/bolt length/washer placement/castle nut pins etc. Sometimes the bushing ends of the bearing fit parts needed to be touched a few strokes with a file for proper fit.

    I'm not familiar with new models of kitfox but on the model 4 any filing on the aileron bell crank bushing ends is done on the top end only. Then extra washer if needed is used on the bottom end to maintain clearance to the floor boards.

    I used blue locktite under the heads of bolts to stop the turning bolt problem.

    The #40 drill bit is used for 3/32" rivets. The #30 drill bit is used for 1/8" rivets. These drill bits are a hair larger than the rivet size for easy incert of the rivet. If you need to drill a rivet out use the fraction size bit for that rivet, ie 3/32" or 1/8" drill to minimize enlarging the hole.

    You will want to get a can or two of touch up spray paint for your powder coated parts. As you have already found out, you will be needing to touch up more powder coated parts. It needs to be compatible with the covering system you are going to use. Back when I was building, the factory sold good high quality touch up paint to match any powder coating color.
    I guess my drill bit thats came with the kit are packaged backwards as the #40 bit is larger than the #30. Mystery solved haha.

    Thanks for the tips too everyone. Just before I called her a night I added a drop of loctite to the bolts that were turning so we shall see what happens. How long does that stuff normally take to set?

    Also I will look for my touch up bottle. It was come in handy because I have more nicks in my powder coated pieces than a kid learning to shave.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    My friend Matt came over and we sanded the ribs and once we were happy with the placement we tried our hand at Hysol. We learnt a few things along the way. When using Hysol it sets up in about 20-30 minutes to the point where its difficult to apply. We made a fairly large batch a first to do all of the horz stab ribs but we were unable to apply half that batch before it became too difficult to apply. The baggie idea is great for applying hysol. We did the ole finger method for the first run with ugly results. By the time we were done the horz stab we had very professional fillets. Nitrile gloves and lots of shop tools to clean up are a must.

    Also when sanding the ribs, tape a piece of sand paper to the 1" tubing of the stab to make short work of fitting the ribs. Takes patience as it was a few hours to get them all in proper place.


    Matt sanding away




    The before picture





    Matt cleaning some wayward Hysol





    Our solution to a rib with a slight warp. Zip tie it in place! Also notice the HORRIBLE hysol job at our first crack at it compared with our later methods! Slight learning curve. Learn from our mistakes and fill a baggie with hysol and tape off your ends. Also apply all your hysol before you start trying to make a nice fillet. Once it sets up a little it's easier to shape.


    A mostly finished product



    I also installed the flapperon mixer assembly today but failed to get pictures. I would be interested to see some of your safety wire jobs on the flapperon mixer bolts as I had never wired before so I just went for it.

    Cheers!
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    Last edited by Esser; 04-07-2018 at 05:00 PM.

  7. #7
    Senior Member t j's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    I would be interested to see some of your safety wire jobs on the flapperon mixer bolts as I had never wired before so I just went for it.
    Have you found the "Hint's for Homebuilders" safety wireing video?
    http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1675022426001
    Tom Jones
    Classic 4 builder

  8. #8
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by t j View Post
    Have you found the "Hint's for Homebuilders" safety wireing video?
    http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=1675022426001
    I have seen the video but it is a good reminder thanks. I was more curious how people have wired it up since the entire bolt has the potential to turn both ways. I forgot to take a picture again of what I did yesterday.


    Yesterday I planned to hysol the elevator ribs in but they were too warped. Since I had help we decided to jump ahead and tackle the vert stab ribs. We found that these ribs were a very poor fit. They had to be sanded out 1/8 inch each side on the back and the opening on the front was about 3/8ths in diameter and needed to be 5/8ths. After sanding for an hour we realized we would be more than all day just sanding these ribs so we decided to get creative.



    Not exactly the right tool for the job but it was a perfect fit and sure saved a lot of time.


    For the mouth we cut a piece of 5/8th cold rolled, wrapped sand paper around it, put it in the drill press at the slowest speed, and away we went.


    None of my ribs on my horz stab needed stiffeners so I brewed up a batch of varnish and put a couple coats on. I had some left over and I knew I wouldnt be working on the plan for a couple weeks so I varnished the vert stab ribs as well. The problem is I hadnt put the stiffeners in yet. Now that these are varnished will it be a problem to sand the ribs and hysol my stiffeners in? I wasn't really thinking.


    Thanks!
    Josh
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    Last edited by Esser; 04-07-2018 at 05:05 PM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Don't forget the invaluable Dremel tool with a variety of attachments: cutoff wheels, sanding drums, etc. I hope you have one; they are very handy for the type of work you are doing with the wood ribs. I have used mine continually thru the whole project.

    Gluing Hysol on top of varnish-not the best idea. Your joint strength will be only as good as the varnish adhesion to the wood. Varnish is a coating, not realy a glue like Hysol. Probably no big deal on rib stiffeners but I sure wouldn't do it on important things like wing ribs glued to spars.

    Jim

  10. #10
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Hey jiott, I do have a dremel but none of the sanding bits I have are small enough to get into these places. I havent been abel to find any that are less than 3/4. I have tried to cheat with the stones but they end up getting gummed up and arent meant for the application. As for hysolling the varnished ribs, they were epoxied to the frame before varnishing. I just need to add ribs in the vert stab and was wondering if sanding will work or if the varnish goes too deep.

    Cheers

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