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Thread: Oil Change 912

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    I use a 2 foot piece of flexible plastic (actually sink drain hose from an RV). I cut one end on a angle that allows it to go under the drain plug on the tank and still allows enough space to remove the plug. The hose lays along the firewall with the bottom end coming out in front of the rad. I set a 4 liter motor oil jug ( with the side opened up) on a stool.
    I loosen the plug first, then lay hose in, unscrew the plug with fingers and let the plug drop in the hose. It slides down into the jug with the oil. The only messy part is picking the plug out of the jug after the oil is drained away.
    One question I have is. How much oil do most people need to replace? Usually I only require 2 liters in order to refill.
    I also use a hose clamp on the filter and safety wire to the engine block.
    Cheers Don

  2. #12
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    Hi Sly

    Yes, I do that as well. I wonder if I let the oil run out here for a while will that give me a "more complete" change. I always plug off the hole while I clean off the magnet. Fortunately, I never find much on the plug!! Usually a little very fine material.
    Cheers

    Don

  3. #13
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    Steve,
    Regarding your question about removing the screen and wiping the tank. I have given that a lot of thought. In the past, for nine years, I did exactly that, but then came the flight to Idaho for the factory fly-in four years ago when we had a low oil pressure indication in the gauge and I put it down in the boonies resulting in a destroyed airplane and a week in the hospita for both of usl. The FAA engine check found a lump of something blocking the pick up tube in tank. My thinking after that is somehow something got dropped into the tank during my last oil change.

    I would guess that of all the internal combustion engines out there in the whole world, we Experimenal Rotax guys are the only ones that open the tank and wipe it out trying to get the last vestige of the old oil out of there. Then again we change the oil every thirty to fifty hours which probably equates to every 2000 miles or so in the auto world, and I wonder what our point is. I think this time around, I will suck out the old oil, change the filter, "vent the system" and go fly. No chance of getting anything left behind, and I seriously doubt it will significantly affect the longevity of the engine - but just thinking at this point. If I do change my mind and end up wiping the tank, the tank will be reassembled after a thourough visual check of the empty tank and the oil will be put in after everything is buttoned up with absolutely no chance of that chunk of gunk that ended up costing us so much getting even close.
    Lowell

  4. #14
    Senior Member Dorsal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    For me I wipe down the tank as I find the silvery sludge on the bottom of the tank disconcerting (I assume this is lead from the 100LL). What concerns me a little is that no matter how you change the oil you potentially (I think likely) put a slug of air into the lines feeding oil to the engine. My method involves disconnecting the tank and having my son hold his thumb over the feed line while I empty, clean, reassemble and refill the tank. When I am done I also turn the engine over with the started for 5-10 sec intervals 2 or 3 times. When I get good response from the oil pressure I start it, run for a bit then check the levels. The only time I pressured the tank while pulling the prop through was when I originally put oil in the engine. Rotax suggests that removing the tank is "opening the oil system" whereas changing the oil with the plug is not. As far as I can tell once the tank is empty the feed tube will drain and air is introduced to the system. Anyone else concerned with this or am I just over thinking it.
    Dorsal ~~^~~
    Series 7 - Tri-Gear
    912 ULS Warp Drive

  5. #15

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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    Since I've yet to change the oil on a 912 I've been following this conversation closely. The conversation about pumps reminded me of this.

    Back in the days of living on a sailboat I had to empty the oil from my auxiliary engine by pumping it out the dipstick. Since the drain plug only had about 2 1/2 inches clearance the hand pump was the only way to go. When I'm finally flying my Kitfox perhaps I'll find another use for this little pump

  6. #16
    Senior Member War Eagle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    I burp the engine to make sure there is no oil laying in the engine sump.

    I have installed a Safe Air oil drain valve on my tank and when it is time to change the oil I just put a piece of clear tygon tubing over the end of the valve and then I relase the valve and the hose goes into a clean empty milk jug. I can see when the tank is empty stopped draining) and then I just shut the valve and remove the tubing.



    The filter is changed with a pan under it to catch drips.

    I then collect a sample of the oil to send in for analysis and then I cut the filter open to inspect. This is the part where I have to be careful not to get oil on the bench.

    The valve and filter are wire tied in place. I also don't remove any of the supply or return hoses for the oil change.

  7. #17
    Senior Member SkySteve's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    Man, there has been some great info shared here. I think I will modify some of the things I have been doing. Good point about do we take our cars apart to change oil. No way. I think I have been over thinking this whole thing. Thank you guys.
    Steve Wilson
    Huntsville, UT
    Kitfox 85DD
    912A / 3 Blade Taper Tip Warp Drive
    Convertible Nosewheel & Tailwheel
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  8. #18
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    Interesting. Slyfox, your comment about your routine was exactly what I said to the FAA investigators during that interview. To this day, I don't know how it happened, but it did. Also your comment about never removing a hose, how do you then purge the system of introduced air as recommended by Rotax - what they call "venting the system". It appears to me we have both been bitten by the same bug. Your case involved a hose that came of, mine something introduced while the top was off the oil tank. Your solution stop taking hoses off, mine stop taking the top of the tank off. It would seem that a hard and fast checklist would take care of both issues, but will it? Not in aviation it won't.

    I did a very close examination of the filler neck after our incident and there is no way to introduce a foreign body into the system through that access. Then with the tank full of oil before closing the lid, there is no way for that last check for foreign material in the tank before closure. For you guys removing and wiping, I would strongly recommend closing the tank with it empty so the last look shows it empty - Then install the bottom plate, Screen and top then adding the oil after tank closure. Of course, just my opinion.
    Lowell

  9. #19

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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    Quote Originally Posted by SkySteve View Post
    Man, there has been some great info shared here. I think I will modify some of the things I have been doing. Good point about do we take our cars apart to change oil. No way. I think I have been over thinking this whole thing. Thank you guys.
    First generation MR2's (86-89.5) usually require you to remove one of the rear quarter panels to change the oil (can't remember if it was engine or transmission oil though), and mid-90s Chevy Cavaliers (or was it early 2000s, can't remember) require you to stick your tongue out the right way AND be a contortionist to take off the filter as the access is through the front passenger wheel well (which causes techs who don't know any better to seriously think about removing the passenger front fender)!

    But yes, in general, if you're taking your car apart to change the oil, something's kinda fishy in my eyes (or you're me, when I used to autocross, and decide to rip apart half the front end to tweak ONE thing during said oil change o_O )

  10. #20
    Senior Member kmach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Oil Change 912

    [quote=War Eagle;18887]I burp the engine to make sure there is no oil laying in the engine sump.

    I have installed a Safe Air oil drain valve on my tank and when it is time to change the oil I just put a piece of clear tygon tubing over the end of the valve and then I relase the valve and the hose goes into a clean empty milk jug. I can see when the tank is empty stopped draining) and then I just shut the valve and remove the tubing.






    I have the same safe air valve on my 912ULS oil tank. I burp the warm engine and attach a clear hose to the valve and open it. when it's done draining I close the valve and add new oil. I change the filter, prefilling it before install.

    I use premium unleaded fuel, so I think there should be very little build up in the oil tank

    Rotax only requires venting/purgeing the oil system if you disconnect the suction line from the oil tank to the oil pump or components of this suction line, such as dismantleing the oil tank.

    I cut the filter and inspect.

    I will add removeing the gearbox magnetic plug for inspection in the list of things to do , just because on my setup it would be the easiest to access and remove the magnetic plug when the oil filter is off.
    Kevin,

    Kitfox Outback
    912 ULS
    Airmaster AP332CTFH-WWR70W
    Summit Aircraft Wheel Skis
    C-FOXW

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