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Thread: Esser's Build

  1. #21
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    I had some excessive friction on my control column torque tube that I couldn't get rid of by loosening the fit of the nylon bearing block. It turned out to be the mounting of the aluminum bearing box on the right hand side. The mounting tabs welded to the fuse tubes weren't all at the same level and when I torqued the mounting bolts down it put the bearing in a bind. The solution was to experiment with several washers of different thicknesses under the box to level it up.

    Jim

  2. #22
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by jiott View Post
    I had some excessive friction on my control column torque tube that I couldn't get rid of by loosening the fit of the nylon bearing block. It turned out to be the mounting of the aluminum bearing box on the right hand side. The mounting tabs welded to the fuse tubes weren't all at the same level and when I torqued the mounting bolts down it put the bearing in a bind. The solution was to experiment with several washers of different thicknesses under the box to level it up.

    Jim
    Hey Jim. Thanks for the advice. You know yesterday I had loosened everything off and tried different angles side to side but I never thought of trying up and down. Good thing those nylock nuts are cheap.

  3. #23
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    OK, So yesterday was work on the floor boards and centre console day. I had some friends move home from england so I didnt get too much done.

    First off I took Jim' suggestion and fixed about 90% of the friction I had. I had to put washers under three of the tabs Like so:



    Next I started fitting the floor boards. A weld was a little high so I filed 'er down.


    Filing down made the floor board fit much nicer. I did this on both sides.




    Fuselage on the side ready to back drill the floor boards. If I were going to do this again I would centre punch the tabs and drill them, debur and then attach the floor boards and back drill. I did them all at once.


    I assembled the flap and adjustable rudder pedal brackets for the centre console but I never really got farther than that for a couple reasons. A) I needed a long 1/16 drill bit to back drill the centre console to the tabs closest to the seat and B) I need to find some better 1/16th bits to drill the detent pins on the adjustable rudder pedal assembly. I guess it's a learning curve but I break those small bits frequently.


    I'll keep you posted on what happens today.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Esser; 04-07-2018 at 05:13 PM.

  4. #24
    ackselle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Looking good! Keep us posted. ...planned fly date?

    Cheers,
    Ackselle
    Ackselle
    Kitfox IV 1200 Classic C-GIKV
    29" Airstreaks, 11" Matco Tailwheel
    ROTAX 912, Hoffman HO-V352F CS Prop

  5. #25
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by ackselle View Post
    Looking good! Keep us posted. ...planned fly date?

    Cheers,
    Ackselle
    Thanks! I don't have a flying date set. My engine funds got eaten up because I have to pay for my wedding so that will set me back a year. I also don't get to work on it much due to my job. But I would say it is a fairly safe bet to seethe plane at Oshkosh 2015!



    Yesterday I started with applying another coat of varnish. Wow that stuff has some fumes. While I was waiting for my second coat to dry I dove into assembling the adjustable rudder handles. Ran into some issues there,


    Fitting up the centre console.



    You can spy my very long drill bit to drill these two holes. I would say that drill bit its a must. $9 Irwin


    Set and clecoed in place for functionality test.


    I ended up have to file down each tab on the rudder brackets. I was getting friction on the detent pin. The flap bracket was fine.


    The prefab kit comes with some beautiful pieces but you still do need to work them a bit to get things to fit. All the brackets had #40 holes predrilled in them. I don't know why this is because the instructions call for #30. So i had to redrill every hole and debur. Most of you know that drilling stainless isn't fun.


    OK, Question time: I was making good progress and I mixed up a tiny batch of hysol to put between the console and the brackets. Once it was all ready I went to put my first stainless steel rivet it in and I could not get a rivet through any of the holes but one. Do I need to drill out the stainless to 9/64 to get a 1/8th rivet it? Believe me I tried to use some force to get them in and nothing helped. Is a pneumatic riveter worth it? One is on sale for $60 at princess auto and I am tempted to grab it.


    What I learned: When it comes to drilling different materials do your home work. Learn about drill speeds before you ruin all your bits. You cannot drill stainless or cold rolled at the same speed as aluminum. Also when you are drilling the 1/16th holes in the detent pins go buy some good drill bits for this. I know it seems ridiculous paying $5 for a tiny drill bit but it will save you some cussing.

    Thanks everyone.
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    Last edited by Esser; 04-07-2018 at 05:15 PM.

  6. #26
    Senior Member Dorsal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Looking good, I'm enjoying the thread.
    Dorsal ~~^~~
    Series 7 - Tri-Gear
    912 ULS Warp Drive

  7. #27
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    I don't mean to nitpic but when you added the washers, you lost the minimum two or three threads protruding through the nylock nut. (at least that's what it looks like in the photo)

    You should replace the bolts with longer ones. One of the first things I bought when I started my kit was a homebuilders hardware kit for $50 from aircraft spruce. It's an assortment of nuts and bolts that I found very handy to keep the project moving rather than waiting for a UPS order.

    Good luck. Get that engine!

  8. #28
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Thumbs up Re: Esser's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Esser View Post
    OK, Question time: I was making good progress and I mixed up a tiny batch of hysol to put between the console and the brackets. Once it was all ready I went to put my first stainless steel rivet it in and I could not get a rivet through any of the holes but one. Do I need to drill out the stainless to 9/64 to get a 1/8th rivet it? Believe me I tried to use some force to get them in and nothing helped. Is a pneumatic riveter worth it? One is on sale for $60 at princess auto and I am tempted to grab it.
    Esser,

    Many "1/8" rivets require a #30 hole... check your assembly manual. For the relatively small number of rivets required in this project I think I'd put that $60 towards your engine, or maybe a set of numbered drill bits. The pneumatic riveter won't do a thing for an undersized hole.
    Last edited by jrevens; 08-26-2012 at 12:51 PM.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  9. #29
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by TahoeTim View Post
    I don't mean to nitpic but when you added the washers, you lost the minimum two or three threads protruding through the nylock nut. (at least that's what it looks like in the photo)

    You should replace the bolts with longer ones. One of the first things I bought when I started my kit was a homebuilders hardware kit for $50 from aircraft spruce. It's an assortment of nuts and bolts that I found very handy to keep the project moving rather than waiting for a UPS order.

    Good luck. Get that engine!
    Please be nit picky. That was a good catch. I actually have a set of AN hardware coming form aircraft spruce. This was the old nylock that wasn't good anyhow and I just wanted to see how it fit. But please everyone if you see something that doesnt look right let me know! I do appreciate it.


    jrevens, I do realize that #30 and 1/8th are the same size. But the stainless steel rivets do not fit in the #30. As for the pneumatic riveter, noted. $60 closer to an engine.

  10. #30
    Senior Member cap01's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Actually a #30 drill and an 1/8 drill aren't the same size . The #30 is a bit larger in diameter
    chuck
    kitfox IV 1050
    912ul warpdrive
    flying B , yelm, wa

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