Look what I found under the cowl!

[beeryboats]

I'm in the process of removing the engine and found a mass of duct tape around all the engine electrical wires. After cutting away the outer layer of hardened tape I found what's in the photo. More tape! under that was shrink tube over bayonet connectors. Whew! What a job. Also, take a look at the other photo. I haven't looked at the book yet, but I'm assuming either a voltage regulator or something to do with the dual ignition. I'm going to have to label these wires very carefully as some are the same color combo as you can see. Neat huh?

As the Rotax 582 is only a 200+ hour engine, I was thinking of using "hand-shake" connectors with thin clear plastic tubing held in place with small zip ties.

[Peteohms]

Well, it is experimental after all! ;-)

[Wheels]

Ok, I don't feel so bad. I was busy having a pity party for all the wrong parts I received (and paid for) and the lack of reliable aviation industry supply. Im almost over it. Thanks.

[beeryboats]

Do you guys have any info on the electronics in the aluminum box?

[dynomike]

its a four wire regulator

[beeryboats]

Thanks Mike. I thought so, but it could have also been associated with the ignition system as well. Thanks!

[foxy]

it's ONLY a rectifier-regulator

this type of rectifier REQUIRES 1 amp of load (~12 watts) to do his job.

NOT related to ignition at all.

see the Rotax manual

[dalords]

it is best to run a ground wire from one of the mounting bolts as well to additional ground. The Rotax 582 at full power produces about 70 volts, all but 13.5-14.5 volts gets shunted to ground. Meaning these things get hot. Ours didn't have a additional ground got really hot shorted out over volted the battery and melted the wires from the stator at the connection points. Make sure you run a battery that is at least 17 amp hours. Check your wires from the stator to the regulator make sure the insulation isn't brittle, due to the heat. that much tape around the wires doesn't allow for a lot of heat to escape.