still waiting to here from you on where you are flying out of. looks like you have your own field, but then again, you might be trailering to felts, which is where I'm based. I remember looking at that airplane when it was in CDA in Jays hanger at the airport there. He was doing an annual and I believe trying to give instruction for the person who owned it at the time and was having a little trouble getting the prop to adjust to their liking. anyway let me know.
I'm at Felts, but will be doing all my testing at Deer Park. Not impressed with whoever did the annual(some guy in Cda) as brakes were leaking, carbs are puking fuel, and a lot of little things missed- however I will admit I'm pretty OCD on things. The scenery and colors on the plane are paint, but it had a lot of lettering on it that was vinyl- which we pulled off. I think vinyl would work fine on a plane- its not that heavy and if you get tired of the design you can pull it off!!!
some of those things leaking could have been due to sitting to long. when I saw the plane it was about 4 years ago. is the plane at felts now, or are you trailering it to the field?
the kitfox is a special aircraft and it takes somebody that knows the aircraft well. I would be happy to look yours over for you, let me know.
First upgrade- Bubble doors. Had no idea it was going to be as big a job as it is turning out to be. Pretty sure the first rule of building is to learn patience something I am severely lacking!!!
Mounting the Acrylic- for as expensive as this stuff is it's not very crack resistant. My original doors have about a quarter inch overlay on the bottom and the back of the fuse- which i was going to duplicate on these- how is everyone trimming the Acrylic? Bandsaw?
the best way to do it is to mark out where you want the rivets. pulled aluminum rivets generally. they are 1/8 so the gold color cleco's are used. once you get all your holes drilled. by the way you drill the plexi a size bigger than the rivet. you take the drill also and take the very outer end or edge of the drill and hit that on a grinder so it doesn't grab the plexi and crack it. once that is done you mark the outside edges with a scripy and than take everything off and cut the plexi. the sabre saw is one of those electric up and down small blade things. make sure and put some tape over the window so you don't end up scratching things up. that's it.
I used a Dremel cutoff wheel. Then a very sharp woodworking plane and in some places a belt sander. The instructions that come with the doors say not to use a recip saw (saber saw) but obviously some have done so with success. They recommend a band saw because it has a consistent single direction force.
I also use a Dremel tool but with a diamond cutoff blade. I used that for trimming fiberglass, plexiglass and acrylic. It's fast and works great and doesn't apply any stress to the substrate. For working the edges I used a wheel that is made of 3M material like Scotch Brite pads. These also work great and smooth the edges really fast and also don't stress the substrate. The wheel comes mounted on an arbor and can be used in a drill or air tool to spin it for working on the edges.
I used the Dremel as well, but with a 1,5 mm mill on it (dunne the right enclise word for it- it's for making sleeves in wood).
Worked very well, no cracks what so ever. You can slit, drill, trim with the thing. The Acryl melts away, sort of.
I fastened the doors with the machinescrews that were with the kit. Screws are more handy in feeling how tight things are, than rivets. IMO.
Re: Model IV upgrades
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