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Thread: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

  1. #11
    Senior Member dholly's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    Quote Originally Posted by Shane Alley View Post
    It wasn't trashed. I purchased it from the insurance company and repaired it. I am flying it again!!
    Glad to hear it, that was a nice plane and based at my airport. I talked to the previous owner about the SB after my KF4-1200 rudder pedal failed (left pedal, left seat), I guess he didn't take it seriously.
    -Aeropro CZ Aerotrek A240 Tri-Gear SLSA 912uls
    -Airdale Avid+ on CZAW Amphibs 'FatAvid Floater' (building)
    -Kitfox 4-1200 TD 912ul (sold)
    -Kitfox Model III TD 582 (R.I.P.)
    -Avid Flyer Mk-IV TD (sold)

  2. #12
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    I started removing the rudder torque tubes but I thought the bolt head at the end came out and you were done. Guess not! Please don't tell me I have to take out the screws holding the pivot points to the floor.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #13
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    Jay,

    Yeah.....the bolt goes through a plastic bushing (which you can only see the collar of) which the torque tube rotates on with a washer and nyloc nut on the other end to secure the bushing to the aluminum angle.

    The idea is so the friction is between the larger plastic bushing and inside of the torque tube rather than wearing on the tiny bolt.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

  4. #14
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave S View Post
    Jay,

    Yeah.....the bolt goes through a plastic bushing (which you can only see the collar of) which the torque tube rotates on with a washer and nyloc nut on the other end to secure the bushing to the aluminum angle.

    The idea is so the friction is between the larger plastic bushing and inside of the torque tube rather than wearing on the tiny bolt.
    So how do you get the darn things out? From what I can see the alum. pivot points have lock nuts on the back side. To get to the inner nuts you have to unskin the front of the belly.

    Never mind. I found a seven year old post that had one entry out of four pages where it was explained how to remove the outer pivot and pull out of the bushing.
    Last edited by beeryboats; 09-25-2017 at 05:20 PM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    I've been researching some different repairs for this issue. The suggested is the factory sheet metal, glue, and ss pop rivets. Then there is the filet between the torque tube and the upright, and then either one with a wrap of steel around the pedal post and the arm for the cable itself. I was thinking instead of a filet on the side of the post and the top of the torque tube, why not weld it up the front center of both the post and cross tube? Then wrap around the post on both sides of the arm? What I mean the front of the pedal and cross tube is the side facing the pilot. Seems to me the force would be from pushing with your feet and that would be the side that needs reinforcement.

  6. #16
    Senior Member
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    Bryan, Texas
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    "weld it up the front center of both the post and cross tube"

    This is how I did mine and how most of the ones I have seen have been done as well.

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Gainesville, tx
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    same here on an avid flyer

  8. #18
    Senior Member Slyfox's Avatar
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    felts field, spokane
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    sorry I believe if a person pushes to hard on those pedals they brake. case in point the brakes don't work. the big guy adjusting himself in the seat.
    steve
    slyfox
    model IV 1200-flying
    912uls
    IVO medium in-flight
    RV7A-flying
    IO-360
    constant speed prop

  9. #19
    kitfoxjim's Avatar
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    Dec 2010
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    Calgary, AB
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    Most of the comments on this subject concern the weldment between the post and the oversleeve that connects to the rudder torque tube. On my most recent annual 2 weeks ago I noticed that the rivets connecting the sleeve to the torque tube had partially sheered, allowing slight movement between the sleeve and torque tube. These are the stainless steel rivets which in my case did not appear to retain the pull pin which leaves only the hollow rivet to take the sheer stress. I drilled out and replaced the existing rivets with stainless rivets with a monel pin that remains in the hollow rivet greatly increasing the sheer pressure.

    I would suggest that everyone check their rivets for tightness. The problem showed up after 725 hours on my Model 5.
    Jim Corner
    KF2 582 1150 hrs
    KF5 O-360 1150 hrs

  10. #20
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: Rudder pedal torque tubes breaking

    Quote Originally Posted by kitfoxjim View Post
    Most of the comments on this subject concern the weldment between the post and the oversleeve that connects to the rudder torque tube. On my most recent annual 2 weeks ago I noticed that the rivets connecting the sleeve to the torque tube had partially sheered, allowing slight movement between the sleeve and torque tube. These are the stainless steel rivets which in my case did not appear to retain the pull pin which leaves only the hollow rivet to take the sheer stress. I drilled out and replaced the existing rivets with stainless rivets with a monel pin that remains in the hollow rivet greatly increasing the sheer pressure.

    I would suggest that everyone check their rivets for tightness. The problem showed up after 725 hours on my Model 5.
    Is this the upgrade where there is sheet metal wrapped front and back of the pedal upright and glued/riveted in place per the drawing in the SB?

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