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Thread: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

  1. #21
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Ok, the elbow was 180 degrees off what I needed, the fix was easy. those hex bolts are 90 inch lb torque and an easy R/R. I didn't replace the o ring in there as it was not flat anyplace and has never been used except for the test run at the factory.
    today is water hose, reservoir move day.
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  2. #22
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Well, I may pay for my smarminess sooner than later.
    I said don't modify the 912 but that's all Im doing right now. The mods are to fit the engine into a model IV round cowl so its not like I'm really doing surgery to boost performance, but some of it is ... well. ... challenging. I need to move the coolant tank to satisfy the oil reservoir placement. The water coolant elbows on the heads don't line up, can I heat them up and separate them from their flange? re-clock them and put in new hoses to fit? can't find it in the heavy maint. manual
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  3. #23
    Senior Member jrevens's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I suspect those are threaded & sealed with retaining compound, so you could probably heat, take it apart, clean & reassemble with new compound, but I'm not certain. You might do like my friend Stan did - swap that one out with the one on your old engine.
    John Evens
    Arvada, CO
    Kitfox SS7 N27JE
    EAA Lifetime
    Chap. 43 honorary Lifetime

  4. #24
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I may end up doing that, but honestly I hate to use old parts on this pretty little motor. Ah, the dilemma.

  5. #25
    Senior Member kmach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    They are held in place by retaining compound loctite 648.
    You can heat them to release the compound. You'll need to get them hot enough for the tube to easily turn out. The tube has very fine aluminum threads, if you force removing, the threads will gall. Also make sure the threads stay aligned when removing or they will get damaged. A wooden dowl in the tube is handy.
    Use a pick to clean the threads on both pieces, use loctite 648 to install .
    Careful to not tighten past where you need for positioning, its better to have it slightly loose than to try to force another turn.
    The Loctite 648 does the holding, not the threads, and it holds and seals very well.
    Kevin,

    Kitfox Outback
    912 ULS
    Airmaster AP332CTFH-WWR70W
    Summit Aircraft Wheel Skis
    C-FOXW

  6. #26
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Thanks Kmach. I'll order the 648 tonight and heat them with a heat gun. I'll use the dowl and a good welding glove to handle them.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    OOPs, looks like Rotax forgot to tell Kitfox what the engine mount dimensions are. Or the old engine and the new engine are NOT ... EXACTLY the same.
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  8. #28
    Senior Member rv9ralph's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Old and new engines are not the same. The dimension for the hole in the gearbox is a little different... but you found that out.

    Ralph

  9. #29
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I got the adapters Machined. They will get re powder coated tomorrow.
    This photo is of the back of the engine.
    I want to remove the bracket holding the braided bundle but I believe the pick up will be disturbed if I do. I don't want to start an electrical issue. Are the new pick ups fixed in such a way that I can just reinstall that screw holding the bracket?
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  10. #30
    Super Moderator Av8r3400's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Yes. You'll be fine to do that.
    Av8r3400
    Kitfox Model IV
    The Mangy Fox
    912UL 105hp Zipper
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