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Thread: Esser's Build

  1. #11
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    I did the same thing and varnished some of the ribs and stiffeners before bonding. I sanded (roughed up) the area on the ribs and stiffeners that needed bonding and then applied the Hysol. That was about three months ago and they seem to be holding together well. Hysol seems to be good stuff.
    Stan Inzer
    912 ULS
    Dynon Skyview 10"
    N599KF

  2. #12
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Dremel has sanding drums that are 3/8" dia. and 5/8" dia.

    I think if you scuff sand down to the wood you will be OK. The book calls for 3 coats of epoxy varnish on the wood. That's a lot of varnishing and is a real pain, especially on the wings. I needed to wear a respirator while varnishing to avoid feeling ill, but I did the 3 coats.

    Jim

  3. #13
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Well I was able to squeeze in a couple more hours of work on the plane before I flew back to work.

    First off, when I epoxied all my horz and vert stab ribs in they were straight as an arrow and I thought I wouldnt need stiffeners. I varnished them because I was worried about the warpage but they indeed still warped. I'll chock it up to the great lakes 100% humidity and the the fact that I was only able to get 2 coats of varnish on not the required three. I am going to leave it for now but I am going to sand the ribs and put stiffeners on every single rib that isn't against the steel frame.


    Since the elevator isnt installed I zip tied the push rod up so that it can swing free if i need to move the control column


    So learn from my mistakes. Even though the instructions call for stiffeners on the ribs you find necessary, put them on right away. It might save you a lot of work since mine were very straight when they were first installed.
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    Last edited by Esser; 04-07-2018 at 05:10 PM.

  4. #14
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Quote Originally Posted by Esser View Post
    I am going to leave it for now but I am going to sand the ribs and put stiffeners on every single rib that isn't against the steel frame.

    So learn from my mistakes. Even though the instructions call for stiffeners on the ribs you find necessary, put them on right away. It might save you a lot of work since mine were very straight when they were first installed.
    I think what I would do in this situation and for that matter for all rib stiffeners regardless of timing is to make some half inch by half inch thin aluminum angles - maybe like .025". Cut then to the effective length of the rib and rivet them in place using aluminum rivets with a little Hysol at the rivet to seal the wood. There is no real force on the ribs except moisture warpage and gentle finger pressure will straighten them. No need to sand and I suspect a bit lighter than the wood stiffeners.
    Lowell

  5. #15
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    I think that is a great idea Lowell. The rivet on the rib wouldn't pull right through?

  6. #16
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    As I found out on my elevator ribs, you need to put the stiffeners in even if the unstiffened ribs are perfectly straight. When you cover and shrink the fabric it will pull the steel tubing in slightly and buckle the ribs if they are not stiffened.

    Jim

  7. #17
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    The rivet should be inserted from the wood side and the aluminum should keep the rivets from pulling through.
    Lowell

  8. #18
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Well after a couple weeks at work I flew back home and started working on the plane again. I didn't get too much new done because my inch lbs torque wrench finally came in so I went back and torqued everything that I had flagged as not torqued. After tightening everything up I still wasnt happy with the friction on my control column bearing so I took it out and started sanding like a mad man. I'm not exactly happy with what I did too it and I may order a new one and start from scratch. It has no slop but I got a little over zealous and she isnt perfectly round.

    When I move my stick forward the last 3 inches of movement has more friction than the rest. I spent several hours today trying every combination of why this may be and I still have no answers. It isnt a lot but I notice it. I am wondering if it is going to drive me nuts forever and I should get to the bottom of it, or if it is one of those things to live and let die.

    I was getting ready to move on to the floor boards. In the manual it doesnt show where to drill the forward floorboard to the frame and there are no tabs on the fuselage. Does this just get mounted with the rudder pedal hardware? Or am I missing something?

    I will take some pictures tomorrow as I dive into the floor boards and centre console!

    As always thanks for your input.


    OH! PS Lowell, my friend talked to his company AME(Aircraft Maintenance Engineer not a doctor in Canada) and he said that riveting the birch ply would split the birch in the drilled out hole and/or the rivet would eventually work itself loose through the hole. I was't able to ask him if the dab of Hysol would stop that...

  9. #19
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    [QUOTE=Esser;OH! PS Lowell, my friend talked to his company AME(Aircraft Maintenance Engineer not a doctor in Canada) and he said that riveting the birch ply would split the birch in the drilled out hole and/or the rivet would eventually work itself loose through the hole. I was't able to ask him if the dab of Hysol would stop that...[/QUOTE]

    A suggestion, check the butt rib installation instructions. At least in the Model IV they are riveted to the brackets that attach them to the skylight through the wooden shear web. When it comes to rag and tube construction, in my experience, you have to take some of the things the licensed techs say with a smile and a thank you, especially if they spend their work day playing with aluminum. Just put the head on the wood side or if you are still a bit concerned, make some thin washers out of aluminum.
    Lowell

  10. #20
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Esser's Build

    Thanks Lowell, will do. By the end of this build I'm going to have you on speed dial haha.

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