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Thread: EFWD Build

  1. #251
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    I certainly don't worry about a thread. It is just where I ask my own questions. I learn a bunch by your communicating hear or elswhere.
    Sometimes I learn stuff I dont want to. Like about this $1000 dongle. WHAT!?
    It is so annoying to find out about "back stage "costs associated with operating this technology stuff after you have invested. Guess I will be doing some research again. Last time it was all my Garmin stuff.
    Eddie

  2. #252
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    That $1000 dongle was part of my cost analysis that said it would take me 10 years of flying to recoup the cost associated with the iS engine. The carburetors suddenly became easier to deal with. Besides I've owned two British sports cars, with SU and Stromberg carbs, way back when.
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  3. #253
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Whew! I had a little stroke there.

  4. #254
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Eddie,

    To ease your blood pressure a bit.... at each 100hrly I call in to my local LAME who specialises in Rotax and he is happy to download the data for me (using his dongle). I can then look through the data using the program that is free to download.
    This costs me about half and hour labour each 100hr.
    One of my issues is that the Rotax Schedule requires the data to be downloaded each 100hr - so I am wondering if the Cambridge instrument (which I understand monitors the data from the computers real time and provides an explanation of any faults) actually downloads the data or if the constant monitoring would be accepted as 'downloading the data'. In some terms I think it makes more sense to see what is causing a Lane A or B light to come on instantly rather than reviewing it later - in other ways, I think the 'rules' for interpreting Lane A or B lights coming on (permanently or intermittently) are a pretty practical way to deal with issues while flying - find out what caused it later - after all, I am not sure I can do much about a faulty generator while flying but I can take appropriate action to avoid more dangerous outcomes if I follow the procedures for responding to the lane A or B warnings.

    In short, I think this is a good piece of kit of the 912is sport but not sure what the practical value add would be?

    thinking about this out loud ......

    cheers
    Ross
    Mt Beauty, Vic
    OZ
    Sold to Richard and Scott Taubman in OZ, 2019. Kitfox SS7,Rotax 912is Sport, Airmaster CSP 75" blades.
    Landcruiser and Cub off road camper (doesn't get any kudos on this forum!)

  5. #255
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    OK, as I have stated, I don't like electrical stuff since my brain seems to not work well with it at all. So here is my dilemma. I want a more visually appealing LED for my Lane warning lights. The red one (came with kit) if I choose to install, I follow the instructions for running resistors. I watched numerous YouTubes. It seems these resistors are neither in parallel or series given the fact that the 1.5 is hooked up to the negative side of the LED while also hooked onto the positive lead. AND the 1.0 resistor is hooked from positive lead to positive post of the LED. I don't get it. For strictly visual purposes I bought 12V LEDs that turn out to not require resistors. Sure...., I bet if I don't put the 1.5 resistor in that strange location between the positive lead and the negative post I will have problems. Anyone able to explain how I can use the nicer black housing type, without resistors, in this location? My panel is black and I like this light but I suppose If I don't find an electrical guru to help me I will have to just use the easier installed resistor ones.Thank You
    Eddie
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  6. #256
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    OOoo, I may actually be able to help here, as I've been discussing similar things with the UK guru of everything electrical and Rotax (the same guy who makes the status monitor).

    The 1.5K resistor that is wired in parallel is necessary to stop the LEDs glowing even when there is no 'signal' to illuminate the Lane light. I guess this is something to do with the incredibly small current that is required to light an LED versus a normal filament and any residual wiggly amps floating around. As is obvious, I don't know why but I do know the parallel resistor is required for that reason. The series resistor is only required really to vary the brightness of your LED and since your LED is purpose-built for the job it shouldn't need that in the circuit. I have gone down this road (I was going to say 'lane' but that would have been a horrible pun).

    I am also availing myself of the LEDs fitted into my rocker switches, so just ignore the part of the diagram below with the switch in it, but this is how you would wire the Lane A light (for Lane B it would be HIC B Pin 2 to HIC B Pin 10).

    If you use the lights supplied they are not LEDs, so you don't need the parallel resistor.
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  7. #257
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Hi Eddie,

    That's good info Paul. Like you Eddie, I find the electrical stuff a bit challenging on the 912is Sport but once I drew it all out and integrated the 'house' electrics with the engine HICs and avionics it all become pretty straight forward. If I read your post right you are wanting to achieve a more visually appealing warning light? I too thought they looked a little plain but once installed, they look fine are VERY easy to see. Here is a pic of them on my panel for reference.
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    Ross
    Mt Beauty, Vic
    OZ
    Sold to Richard and Scott Taubman in OZ, 2019. Kitfox SS7,Rotax 912is Sport, Airmaster CSP 75" blades.
    Landcruiser and Cub off road camper (doesn't get any kudos on this forum!)

  8. #258
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Thanks Paul
    I believe I understand however these are both LEDs. The kit supplied the all red colored one and it does require the resistors per the schematic. Funny thing is, there is a resistor within that light. I can see it through the transparent housing. I am assuming that there is also a resistor inside the Black housed one as well. I gathered from the instructional videos that there are no true 12V operated LEDs and resistors are used to restrict the energy through the light. I believe I can remove the 1K ohm resistor if I understand you correctly? It is very odd to me that there would be any energy being supplied to the negative pole of the light though. I think the result of having greater resistance on one resistor would still keep energy flowing through the light in one direction if Im not mistaken. I appreciate your reply.

  9. #259
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    I believe I can remove the 1K ohm resistor if I understand you correctly?
    I believe that to be the case, having spoken to our guru but he did say that would all depend on the resistance of the 'shop bought' LEDs that we've both got. Because they are made specifically for 12V circuits then I think we'll be alright but I may well be wrong and end up having to wire in the series resistor (1K) for each LED as well as the parallel one.

    The Rotax installation manual I have talks of this, so I may well be busier with a soldering iron than I hope
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  10. #260
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Thanks Ross
    I agree, they do look good.
    I saw these on the aircraft Kitfox took to Oshkosh last year and I really liked the panel so I was replicating it pretty much. My panel will be powder coated black so I really like the black surround of these.
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