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Thread: First, Build a Shed

  1. #61
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Before reading the manual, rigging the wings seemed like a major undertaking. After a couple of readings the mystery began to clear. It went something like this.

    "Hey, I never noticed the factory pre-drilled a hole in the trailing edge spar. I get it, pin that spar, position the wing, and drill a hole in the other spar to match the... Wait a second, how am I going to see through the front spar to match drill? Ah, that's why the reference measurements were made to the second mounting hole. But there is absolutely no way am I going to get the hole in the spar perfectly positioned. Oh, that's clever, drill a small hole, shape with a file, then ream to a perfect fit. These Kitfox guys are pretty smart cookies."

    As when using clecos for the first time, mounting the wings will feel like I'm really building an airplane. A chance to step back from looking at individual trees and see the whole forest as it were.
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    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  2. #62
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Are these tiny little nuts really the only thing that prevent the lift strut bolts from falling out, the wing ripping away and me falling to earth in the familiar "death spiral" the media warns us about? Or did I pull the wrong parts from the wing hardware inventory?

    And, yes there should be washers, this is just temporary while rigging the wings.
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    Carl Strange
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    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  3. #63
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Yes that little nut is really more than meets the eye. It is what is called a "prevailing torque" nut-it has a deformed all steel thread that actually grips much better than a nylock nut, and has more threads than a nylock. In this application it has no load on it other than vibration and its only purpose is to prevent the bolt from "falling" out. Yes you can go ahead and stake your life on it.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  4. #64
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Thanks Jim,

    I checked the part number more than once. But I did expect a nylock here and it seemed prudent to ask for confirmation. The things one learn while building an airplane
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  5. #65
    Senior Member PapuaPilot's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Yes, the MS21042 series nuts are every bit as good as the nylock MS21044 nuts. They save weight too.

    The main thing I wanted to pass on it that these nuts are typically used one time and replaced with new to assure the locking feature is working. There is a table in AC43.13-1B that gives value for the running/prevailing torque (i.e. the torque just to make it turn) that must be present for the reuse of locking hardware. The problem with the table is it starts with 7/16"-20 nuts, so it isn't very helpful for the typical 3/16" and 1/4" hardware.

    One thing I did during my construction was to use non-locking nuts when I was doing all of the trail assembly and saved the actual locking hardware for final installation. Doing this saved time too because you can spin them on by hand and snug them if needed. I actually used some non-aviation nuts from the hardware store, but made sure they weren't used during final assembly.
    Phil Nelson
    A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
    KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
    Flying since 2016

  6. #66
    Senior Member colospace's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I have been doing the same as Phil using hardware store nuts for non-flight temporary assembly. To help insure that they do not get over looked later, I first "color" the flats with red fingernail polish or a red permanent marker.
    - Gary
    S7 SuperSport Tri-gear
    w/Rotax 912, Oratex, Dynon

  7. #67
    Senior Member Cherrybark's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Color is a nice idea. I have little pieces of bright tape stuck near nuts that haven't been torqued yet.
    Carl Strange
    Flying
    SS7, 912iS, Oratex, G3X

  8. #68
    Administrator DesertFox4's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    I do the bolt/nut marking a little different. Used this on the first build and all through the 2nd so far. Finished bolts/nuts get the yellow fingernail polish only when they are final torqued and not before. Anything without a yellow stripe across the bolt and nut is considered temporary. This also works nice for pre-flights later to see if any bolts or nuts have moved and broken the "seal". Also the DAR can use this during airworthiness inspection to satisfy himself that all critical items have been finished.


    DesertFox4
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    912 ULS Tri-gear


  9. #69
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Just some added info on locknuts. The deformed thread locknut you're using provides the locking capability of the nut to the bolt. It does this by the friction generated when you screw the bolt through the deformed thread. It's not quite the same as positive locking such as when you use a a castellated nut and split pin, but the friction is sufficient to retain the nut on the bolt even in vibration environments. You should also know that these nuts are qualified to a specification that requires them to be subjected to all sorts of testing, including ensuring they retain their locking capability under a range of vibration environments. The nylon nuts do the same thing, but the deformed thread type locknut is a better option IMHO for this type of application. Having said that, if you were to remove the nut for some reason, I'd recommend replacing it with new. Reusing the nut would not guarantee the same amount of friction given that the thread has already been deformed first time around. Hope this helps.
    David
    SS7 Builder

  10. #70
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: First, Build a Shed

    Interesting that your nuts are the lead color. Mine are the same color as the bolt. Vibration must be the purpose behind this nuts use here. It was my understanding that these deformed nuts are purposed for high temp areas like engine components or those close by. Nylon in normal temps.
    Eddie

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