First, Build a Shed

[efwd]

Hey Carl
I can tell you how I added more work to my center console install. When I was dealing with the forward flange it seemed the flange may have been bent a tad more than necessary. I allowed the console to sit deeper so that it contacted the tab on the firewall. This effectively leveled out the console a bit more and as a result the adjustable pedals and flap detent brackets sat further down. I then had to grind off about 1/16th inch of the brackets off so that when I pushed the button down on the handles the steel rod would not drag along the bottom of the brackets as I pulled the handle through its travel. In hind sight I should have taken some of the bend out or shimmed between the console flange and it mount tabs on the airframe. Hell, Im not sure now if I could have pushed the console forward or not. I would say try to mate the forward end of the console first maybe. Might have helped me out. All in all mine worked out well in the end.
Eddie

[jiott]

Carl,
Locate the flap and rudder pedal detent brackets as close as you can to where they are shown in the manual. Don't overly obsess about exact placement because when you actually rig the flaperon push rods there is quite a bit of adjustment available in the rod end threads. The rudder cables are installed to fit.

[Cherrybark]

Thanks for that note Jim. Just finishing up the trim servo today and console is next on the list.

[Cherrybark]

The last couple of weeks have seen steady progress but the jobs have required lots of fitting, clamping, checking and rechecking before finally drilling holes in the fuselage. I continue to be impressed with the descriptions and drawings in the manual. Sometimes have to remember to stop and read through a process to understand the complete job, rather than simply running down the steps.

Took two days to install the console with flap and rudder adjustment detents. Near the end of the first day I admitted the collection of spring clamps weren't suitable for the job and made a trip to the hardware store for some small C-clamps. Should have remembered to wear glove while working with the Hysol. Odd that such a small amount of epoxy could get on so many things! Alcohol to the rescue!

Tips in the forum to swap handles or rotate them 180 degrees eliminated all scraping on the console slots but I need to come up with some way to prevent scratching during normal use. Haven't found that solution in the forums yet.

Removed the console to make room for playing with the rudder pedals.

[Esser]

I was thinking some thin felt on each side might do the trick just to get it away from the edge

[Cherrybark]

Took five days (23 hours) to build and install the rudder pedals. This isn't a difficult job but I was fussy about friction in the inner bearings and repeatedly checked the assembly before matching drilling the pedals to the torque tube. Another of those jobs you need to get right the first time or time and money are going to be wasted ordering new parts.

It didn't help that I spent a couple of hours looking for the 2nd inboard torque tube bracket. Repeatedly opened every box, looked on every shelf, no joy. The drawing in the manual shows one set of pedals and it took an embarrassingly long time to realize a single inboard bracket supported both torque tubes.

At first the assembly didn't allow the mounting holes of the outboard brackets to center on the fuselage tube. It's not critical they be perfectly centered but I didn't want to have problems with the nut or torque wrench socket rubbing against a wall. Used a bench sander belt to remove about 1/4" material from the outboard ends of both rudder pedal assemblies to have the holes satisfactorily located. Clamps, measure, measure, measure, drill, whew!

Of course, after torquing down the brackets, there was friction on both outboard pedals. As with the control stick, I was willing to patiently work to reduce the friction now rather than have it bug me over the years. There is a nice thread in the forum with ideas on straightening the torque tube. But, with my modest shop, I went with shims. Ended up with single washers under both outboard mounting brackets. The mounting screws are long enough to have plenty of thread through the nyloc washers.

To figure out where the torque tube was dragging on the bearing, I colored each of the four bearings with a black marker, torqued the mounting bolts, and swung the outboard pedals back and forth 20-30 times to rub away the marker. Removing the assembly and looking at the bearings showed where the tubes were rubbing. Shimming the outboard brackets as a first step reduced much of the drag. Then it was repeated "painting", mounting and working the pedals to identify high spots and slowly eliminate friction on the outboard pedals.

Only a small amount of material was removed from each bracket. In some cases, a "shoe shine polishing" with a strip of 1/2" 150 grit sandpaper shaped a bearing for a better fit. Where the weld spots rubbed the outer bearings, the "drill press lathe" and sandpaper were used to round the nose of the bearing or the offending weld spot was smoothed with a Dremel sanding disc.

Finally the bearings and torque tubes were cleaned with alcohol, lightly greased and torqued into place with new nyloc nuts. Twenty three hours on one part of the assembly! But I will be pleased with the light controls for years to come.

[Cherrybark]

After the days of rudder pedals, installation of the pedal springs, brake master cylinders, and rudder cable pulleys were a snap. Finished the day by installing the rudder. Now comes a few days of installing the air foil ribs in the vertical stabilizer and rudder. Nice to be working with the now familiar Hysol and epoxy varnish.

166 hours into the build. Not racing to finish, just making steady progress and enjoying every minute.

[Floog]

Carl, you are a meticulous builder! And it WILL pay off down the road.

I just wanted to mention something to consider. I am a long legged pilot, so I set up my peddles as close as possible to the firewall for max legroom. Turned out, a little too close! One of the actuator hydraulic fittings (pilot side, left peddle) was denting the firewall! I fixed it by rotating the cylinder base 90 degrees (toward the center). By doing so, I think you can get another inch of travel. The cylinders can be rotated any of four positions without affecting the pivot point.

[Dave S]

................on the console slots but I need to come up with some way to prevent scratching during normal use. Haven't found that solution in the forums yet...........

Carl,

I don't like things rattling or scratching around either......found a simple solution was to place a length of the 1/2" sticky backed anti chafe tape from the polyfiber materials on the inside of the detent plates so the flap handle could smoothly slide along that instead of having any metal to metal contact.

[Dave S]

While we are on the subject of flap handles & rudder adjustment, thought I'd share an experience I had.

PLEASE REMEMBER - THIS WAS A PRE JOHN MCBEAN FUSELAGE I HAD - MADE BY THE DEFUNCT SKYSTAR CORP JUST BEFORE THEY FILED BANKRUPCY.

Had an opportunity to sharpen my gas welding skills where the rudder adjustment anchors had been mostly cut through during the assembly weld. Attached photo - notice that the small dark area along the inside edge is all that held the side to the base of anchor. The side part dropped off with a little "plink" when I pressed on it with my finger. A little hot wrenching with the gas torch/4130 rod, painting and good to go. If anyone picks up an earlier started kit to finish, might be a good point to check.