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Thread: EFWD Build

  1. #351
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    LOL. I have mentioned how much I love electrical stuff right?
    Heres my first fried part all because I wanted to see how bright or dim the interior LEDs were going to be. So, working in dim light I wired up my leds to the battery thats mounted on the fire wall and the switch slipped from my fingers and contacted the firewall as it dangled from the wires. ZAP! All done. Blue LEDs looked cool though. I cant even see what part touched the firewall but I believe a little tiny diode is the fried part. Shoot, $59.
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  2. #352
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Im installing the windscrean/roof today. How do you drill the large hole in the back end so that the wing hinge bolt can be removed? Will a step drill bit work or will it fracture the acrylic?
    Eddie

  3. #353
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    I didn’t put a hole in the back. If I need to take that bolt out I take out about 5 screws on the side and all the screws on the back of the WJ shield

    My advice for the windshield is don’t trim the front soar location until the windshield is installed.
    ------------------
    Josh Esser
    Flying SS7
    Rotax 914iS
    AirMaster Prop

    Edmonton, AB, CWL3

  4. #354
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    I see. I'll do that too. Thanks
    I would ask what you meant by Soar but I have trimmed everything already. It all seems to be coming out OK.
    Eddie

  5. #355
    Administrator DesertFox4's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    He probably meant front spar location. Auto spell goes nuts sometimes.


    DesertFox4
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  6. #356
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    You will also need an enlarged hole over the front spar bolt. In my opinion this one is way more necessary than the rear one, because you will want to fold the wings partially back once a year for wing root inspection. I never have removed the rear spar bolt.

    Can't remember how I did the enlarged hole; I think I used a step drill but don't do it without checking first. You can also use a Dremel carefully.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  7. #357
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Thanks guys for the replies.
    I have prepped my fiberglass and flapperons to apply primer and paint. For those of you who have used Poly Tone I have a question. In the Poly Fiber manual there are two methods. (1) Apply white primer then scuff the surface with fine scotch brite to give tooth. Then apply color. (2) Apply white Primer then allow to dry for a week. Mix up one coat of primer and your color. Apply one more coat of primer then when tacky (not dry) apply your color.
    The way I read this is that there is only one difference and that is the tacky coat of primer immediately before color instead of scuffing. How have you guy accomplished this and how were the results?
    Eddie

  8. #358
    Senior Member Flybyjim's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    Hi Eddie,

    I have sprayed a couple planes as you are asking about. I have tried both methods with about the same result. The epoxy primer needs the week to wick out the chems so the top coat adheres well. My last attempt was an aluminum cowl on an Aeronca L16A, i really scuffed the aluminum, light coat of primer, waited 30 min, spayed a wet coat and waited until it was tacky and sprayed a light cross coat of color when that was tacky a full cross coat of color. It came out looking very nice, this was two years ago and the paint is fine, no chips or cracking. I flex the cowl every time I am checking the oil and engine before flights. Painting can be challanging, rewarding when all goes well and a bear when things go south. Perseverance.

  9. #359
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    thank u Flybyjim

  10. #360
    Senior Member efwd's Avatar
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    Default Re: EFWD Build

    I applied primer to my wing tips, lower cowl, tail access panels and nose cone today. Eh, could have turned out better. White primer on white gel coat was not easy to see. Anyhow, I have some runs on account of the super fill. As I applied my first coat the super fill didn't take up the primer. I figured it would get soaked up. It did the opposite. The primer stood up in an orange peel like finish. When I began applying the second coat I noticed that it began to lay down some so I got heavy on the application in hopes it would smooth out but I got runs in addition to the smoothing out. I also note that with a shiny surface now, the small areas, where I applied super fill to fix some missing gel coat, are now small depressions. I assume the sponge sand paper was not quite like using a hard block with sand paper. Has anyone any idea how I can get the super fill to take primer without orange peel.

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