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Thread: Hysol ??

  1. #11
    Senior Member Slyfox's Avatar
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    Default Re: Hysol ??

    I have a problem with your statement. wood is wood. if I know glue it will soak into the rib. I don't see any reason to try and get this out. just remove what you can and when you put the new on, it will bond to the old. just move on, don't be a perfectionist. it might bite you. meaning, if you remove the surface of the rib to get the old hysol off, you will more then likely remove rib material. just leave it and install and recover with the hysol.
    steve
    slyfox
    model IV 1200-flying
    912uls
    IVO medium in-flight
    RV7A-flying
    IO-360
    constant speed prop

  2. #12
    Senior Member jiott's Avatar
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    Default Re: Hysol ??

    I figured my comments might stir up some interesting discussion. Just for the record, my statement about the glue joints not being a critical structural joint is not original with me; like Slyfox said I heard it somewhere else but can't remember where. Also I want to be clear that none of us including myself would even for a moment consider not gluing those joints. That said, I still believe the statement is true. Think about it; there are no lateral forces on the ribs, there are no twisting forces on the ribs because the spar/cross braces ladder structure is all locked in STRUCTURALLY by the aluminum parts and the steel lift struts, the ribs only have vertical forces applied by the lift on the attached fabric. These vertical forces are transferred to the spars at the points where the spars go thru the close fitting holes in the ribs. No glue is required to do this; it is just like a big bolt loaded in shear passing thru a plate (you don't glue in shear bolts). As I mentioned previously, the rib can do all of this as long as it is stable and doesn't move out of position or tip sideways. The fabric itself with the rib stitching will accomplish this, the glue is only a secondary backup. Again as I stated previously, as long as you have a good glue to spar joint on each side of the rib with a nice fillet up the side of the rib, the glue to wood joint could be totally disconnected and the ribs would still be held tightly in position and stable and transferring the lifting loads to the spars. If those holes thru the ribs for the spars were sloppy loose my argument would not be nearly as valid.

    Believe me I am not trying to be a know-it-all or to call others out as being right or wrong, its just fun to think about these things and to try and evaluate what we have heard.
    Jim Ott
    Portland, OR
    Kitfox SS7 flying
    Rotax 912ULS

  3. #13
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
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    Default Re: Hysol ??

    An easy way to clean up the false ribs, because of their simple shape (once they are removed) , is to get access to a simple bench belt sander - a quick touch on each side will clean those up and the open drum end can be used to get the edges. It's so darn easy it's hard to keep oneself from doing it. There will be some varnishing when it is all bonded back in but that's easy too.

    I ended up with a cheap 6" disk/belt sander combo which was one of the most useful tools I had for shaping and cleaning up numerous small wood and metal parts for our build.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

  4. #14
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
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    Default Re: Hysol ??

    Please disregard my previous post - I believe I misunderstood the original question.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

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