Rib Lacing and Laker Leading Edge

[Cherrybark]

Nice tip on having the reinforcing tape in place before punching lacing holes. Thanks for posting that

[N213RV]

I did option #2. I also added 'false' rib stitching over the fuel tank so I had a nice uniform look across the wing from tip to root....

In addition, I rib stitched all flying surfaces. It gives the plane a more vintage look.

Your plane, your choice. I don't think you can go wrong either way.

[jiott]

My personal opinion, but I think rib lacing is especially important on any concave surface. Under the wing, including under the tank, is one of those places (the only concave wing or tail surface on a Kitfox). A few of our forum members have had that area pop loose during the final 350 degree fabric shrink. If that is the case, then I would want that rib laced for flying. Supposedly no negative pressure under there, but during turbulence??

[efwd]

That's a thought Jim. I'm resting comfortable on the statement in the manual that states that with the 1" wide cap strip the lacing is not required but most people do the lacing and it is recommended by both Kitfox and Poly fiber. How do you feel about the fact that the top surface of the tank is not glued to the surface of the tank and there are no laces on the number 3 rib at the edge of that tank? That surface is exposed to some of the most intense forces too, with the prop wash added to that area. I suppose the application of Poly Fibers Poly Brush after shrinking does some adhering to the tank but I guess you don't put it on the tank prior to the fabric going on? I have glued my Oratex over the entire tank as well as all ribs, including the false ribs top and bottom. Im very confident my top surface is secure and hope that the multiple glued contact points on the bottom of the tank do the job. Steve Wittman comes to mind. Always appreciate your input and help with this stuff, keep it coming.

[DesertFox4]

Eddie, yes we do coat the fuel tank top sides with polybrush before covering. Then when brushing the first polybrush layer on the new fabric, the mek based polybrush will re-soften the polybrush applied to the tank tops and meld them together. If you have ever tried peeling a properly applied poly fabric from a surface that large, you learned quickly how effective the polyfiber system really is. It is almost permanent unless you re-activate the polybrush with mek before attempting to remove fabric fom an airframe. Following the Polyfiber manual and the recommendations in your Kitfox build manual will give you real peice of mind that your aircraft's fabric will have a 20 year plus useful life.

[efwd]

Thanks Steve. I went to bed figuring I must not have read something right. Being that Im not using Poly Fiber I didn't concern myself but expected a reply from someone straitening me out. It was line 8 on the bottom fabric installation. I looked back just now and saw what I had read and understand now. Thanks
Eddie

[jiott]

I did rib lace the #3 rib. Left a small gap between the edge of the tank flange and the rib cap strip.

[efwd]

Dang you didnt miss a thing. I was afraid I would have compromised the seal of the tank after I did my leak test. Too lazy to retest it. I was uncomfortable trimmining some of the tank edge off during the time of install and as much as I wanted to, ( to give me more room between rib 1 and the inboard end of the tank) I didnt want to trash a tank. So much to learn. I may do a second build and at least then I will be able to anticipate whats next in the process. I should be much more comfortable next time. I want a Radial next time.😁

[Cherrybark]

I did Hysol the tank to the #3 rib but, looking at the width of the flange on the tank, am pretty comfortable drilling holes for lacing.

This would be easier the second time around. Didn't WarEagle help several through their builds before starting his, "Arlington 2010 Reserved Grand Champion"? Smart cookie

[jrevens]

I did Hysol the tank to the #3 rib but, looking at the width of the flange on the tank, am pretty comfortable drilling holes for lacing.

That's what I did, Carl.