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Thread: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

  1. #11
    Super Moderator Av8r3400's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    Quote Originally Posted by DanB View Post
    I used riv-nuts on my doors. If you screw them down too tight, little fracture lines occur. Take the time to ream the holes in the plastic (get rid of sharp edges). I would also include a rubber/plastic washer between the door plastic and the screw head.

    Dan - I'm intrigued by the riv-nuts idea. Do you have any photos or details to add?
    Av8r3400
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  2. #12
    Spook712's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    YES Dan, that is exactly what I'm planning to do.

    Do you have some close ups??

  3. #13
    Senior Member Esser's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    I am planning on using black aluminum pop rivets. If I need to replace the lexan, they drill out easy.

  4. #14
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    I also used pop rivets. I found aluminum rivets pre-finished in black. I also chose to go with the Lexan as a weight saving decision. One thing I did a bit differently was to search out some aluminum H channel on line. I found some 1" wide channel with a 1/8" throat. Carefully bending it to shape, it replaced the fiberglass strap between upper and lower Lexan. (Drop a note if you want to try this as bending the channel takes some care.) I had the strap on my first Model IV and never liked the way it looked or fit. Once the channel was fitted to the frame and clecoed in place, it required some careful trimming of the mating edges of the upper and lower Lexan sheets, but I really like the look. The door frame is black so with the aluminum channel and pop rivets both in black, I almost get the acrylic bubble door look.
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    Lowell Fitt
    Goodyear, AZ


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  5. #15

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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    Lowell that is drop dead gorgeous! Can you post a link for the materials? Forming the material should be relatively easy with a piece of 1/8 th. material (scrap plywood, aluminum etc.) in the channel to prevent the channel from collapsing.
    Kurt A

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  6. #16
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    Quote Originally Posted by Kurt.A View Post
    Lowell that is drop dead gorgeous! Can you post a link for the materials? Forming the material should be relatively easy with a piece of 1/8 th. material (scrap plywood, aluminum etc.) in the channel to prevent the channel from collapsing.
    Thanks, Kurt. The product is McMaster Carr part number 8429A3 - just checked and still in the online catalog. You got the bend issue right on. I used several layers of thin aluminum strips that fit very snugly into the channels. I marked the bend location and clamped a piece of rounded 2X4 in the vice and bent it over that by hand - repeatedly checking progress against the door frame. You can see by the picture that I trimmed each end to fit over the door frame tubing.
    Lowell Fitt
    Goodyear, AZ


    My You Tube Channel

  7. #17

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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    Quote Originally Posted by HighWing View Post
    Thanks, Kurt. The product is McMaster Carr part number 8429A3 - just checked and still in the online catalog. You got the bend issue right on. I used several layers of thin aluminum strips that fit very snugly into the channels. I marked the bend location and clamped a piece of rounded 2X4 in the vice and bent it over that by hand - repeatedly checking progress against the door frame. You can see by the picture that I trimmed each end to fit over the door frame tubing.
    Ordered the aluminum H last night and got a reply from McMaster Carr today saying that they are declining the order. Apparently they will not ship a personal order out of country, only business orders. So searching for another supplier.

    Kurt
    Kurt A

    Kitfox II,
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    1100 gross
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  8. #18
    Super Moderator Av8r3400's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mod 4 Speedster Door Windows

    Quote Originally Posted by DanB View Post
    I used riv-nuts on my doors. If you screw them down too tight, little fracture lines occur. Take the time to ream the holes in the plastic (get rid of sharp edges). I would also include a rubber/plastic washer between the door plastic and the screw head.

    Since it's not advisable to tighten the fasteners too much, how did you do this with the riv-nuts? Did you add a drop of loc-tight or similar to keep the screws staying in place?
    Av8r3400
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