Stabilizer Rib at 34 1/2"

[Cherrybark]

Eddie, I think I see your problem. You need to hurry and get old enough to retire! Then you only have yard work, house maintenance and other chores to consume your time.

[mr bill]

Retirement has not helped me much. I've been building mine for five years in my garage and it is almost done. I have become a putz.

[efwd]

lol Mr Bill
I'm falling into that rut a little bit myself. I've made some mistakes along the way and I hate that. All new rudder cables for example. Dang it. It starts feeling not so recreational sometimes so I start avoiding the project. The video Trent posted gets me fired up so I really like this site and frequent it often. Can't wait for Oshkosh. Carl, when you see the diagrams for the rudder cable install, pick one and go with it. You will note, the depicted colors on one page is opposite the colors on the next diagram. I got wrapped up trying to make sure I didn't mess that up and missed the fact that one was twisted a bit around the the other because I couldn't see it hiding behind the elevator push pull tube. I was not looking down from above it but from the side while sitting on the floor.

[mr bill]

I did my rudder cables twice also. I stepped on the pedal too hard and the swaging let go. That was actually not all bad. It caused me to go out and buy the proper swaging tool. $260 at some of the aircraft supply places, but $37 at Lowes. See you at Oshkosh, but I don't know what day, depends on weather. I live not far away, so I just drive up.

[TahoeTim]

I did my cables some months ago. If I recall correctly John sent me an additional drawing. Once you wrap your head around the fact that the pilot cables are complete to the rudder without a break. The pass cables simply clamp to the pilot set which I find very safe.

[efwd]

Hey Carl
thought I would offer you something before you pass me up. Today I fabricated my Flapperon outboard end caps from balsa wood. $20 for a three foot long 4x4 from Aircraft spruce. fortunately I can drive to pick it up. Anyhow, they were very easy. I didn't like the foam that I used on the top of the vertical tail but I have left it since its in. Thought I would try Balsa wood. I cut down the board to give me the appropriate size. I placed it against the end of the flapperon and tapped it with a malet. After cutting it out I drew a line down along the cord line to indicate where to end the sanding. I first used a dremel tool 1/2 inch wide sanding disk and gently sanded down the 1/2 inch part that slips inside the flapperon. When using the band saw dont forget to leave the material that has the impression so that the wood doesn't push all the way into the flapperon. Cut just outside the impression. I then used the belt sander and went to work just sanding away the excess material stopping along that cord line that I had marked. I tried not to ever roll the block over totally level to avoid sanding away the lip that keeps it from sliding into the end of the flapperon.I think these came out looking like I purchased them from someplace. Now I need someone to advise me on how to stiffen up Balsa Wood. I need a way to keep it from denting easily.
Eddie

[Cherrybark]

Those look very nice Eddie. Another example of how useful a band saw can be. Let's see... Father's day is gone. Birthday isn't till April. Shoot.

[Dusty]

To make balsa less succeptable to bruising try using a very thin ca glue

[Esser]

For the flapperons I bought the plastic tips kitfox supplies. Well worth the cost and sturdy

[Floog]

After I had painted the whole airplane, I found out the rudder was an inch taller than the vertical stab when I mated the two! So I made a balsa tip for the vertical stab. I used Hysol to attach the piece to the 'roughed up' Aerothane. I made the tip about 1/8" undersize and used Hysol to build and strengthen the surface. Superfilled, finish sanded, and brush painted. Now you know about the ONLY mistake on my plane. Yeah, right.....:-)