I Almost Lost My Mind Today

[Av8r3400]

I've decided to cut off these weird fittings on my classic IV and put regular hinges on instead...

[carsonvbaker]

I hate to admit this, but, I actually dropped a wrench while tightening the rudder bolts, the wrench quickly found it's way to the inside bottom of the rudder. Yes, take all the nuts/washers/bolts out again and most carefully shake the rudder to retrieve the wrench. I then tied a piece of string onto the wrench thereafter.

[DanB]

If you only have to take the rudder off once to retrieve your parts you are doing well. And don't forget Murphy's Law is usually at work waiting until you are on the last bolt before you loose something inside...good times

[cainbird]

I also hate to admit it but there may be a couple washers floating around inside my rudder!

[Dorsal]

I found I could chase down the pesky little buggers by using the magnet from the outside. I would drag them to where I could reach them with the telescoping magnet tool through the bottom hinge access hole.

[cap01]

a length of waxed lacing cord for tieing up wire bundles tied to the tool is really great for keeping it from falling out of sight . the super glue works to keep the nuts in the wrench and also the washers on top of the nuts until you get them started .

[Dvanlanen]

Hi John,

I am at this point with my Model 7 SS, so I read your explanation on how to install the hinge bolts. I have all the cutting and fitting work done on the rudder fairing, and the rudder fits fine with the fairing taped in place. The only things I haven't done yet are to: 1) cut the bolt access openings and 2) bond the fairing to the rudder. My rudder fairing has marks for the bolt access openings, and these marks are approximately 5/8" wide by 2" long. Rather than cut the openings right away, I first made up a cardboard template with this sized opening, taped it to the vertical tail at a hinge point, and tried "practicing" bolt installation. I think I can get the bolt in using your approach, but I don't think I can swing a wrench 10 degrees with this opening dimension. If I make the opening wider, it will be visible at neutral rudder. Do you happen to recall the dimensions of the bolt openings you made in your rudder fairing?

Thanks,
Dave

For readers/builders that may not have reached the rudder installation, here are some tips.

These tips apply to the Model 7 SS with the speedster rib kits. They may be useful to those building a classic IV as well.

Remove the center ball end from the vertical stab while you do test fitting of the rudder and trimming of the fairings. Having only two bearings to line up is much easier. Get the top and bottom of the rudder evenly spaced away from the vertical stab so there is no rudder interference with the fairings or the rudder stops. Do all of the trimming on the fairings before you install the center bearing.

Before you attempt to slide the hinge bolts in place on the rudder, attach a safety line. Use a 12 inch length of .020 safety wire wrapped two or three turns around the bolt shank just below the head. Twist a 1 inch diameter finger loop in the other end of the wire.

To hold your bolts during installation, use a short 6 inch mechanical finger tool. Most auto parts carry them for under $6. Grip the bolt on the shank, just below the head. The tool will grip the bolt firmly and give you enough pressure to push the bolt into the bearing. Should you drop the bolt during install you can simply pull the bolt out with the safety wire.

Once you have the hinge bolt in position and partly inserted, a firm pull on the safety wire will release the bolt as the wire unwinds. Then push the bolt down.

To install the nuts use a box end wrench and a ratcheting box end wrench (Gear Wrench) together. A 3/8 inch Gear Wrench needs only enough room to slide the box end into position and swing about 10 degrees. To get the nut started, place tape across the bottom of the regular box end wrench to hold the nut and prevent it from falling through. Turn the bolt with the Gear Wrench to start it into the nut. Once the nut is on and you start to get some drag, swap the wrenches and use the Gear Wrench to tighten the nut and the regular box to hold the bolt.

[Note: If you don’t have a set of Gear Wrenches, put them on your wish list. They are available at Lowe’s and Sears. A full set of imperial wrenches is about $42. For aircraft work they are well worth it.]

To align the center ball end, use a 3/16 inch diameter steel rod. Slide the rod through all three ball ends. It will quickly show you where the center ball end needs adjustment. (The top and bottom are already set when you trim the fairings and make slots for the rudder limiter.)

You’ll find the fuselage rudder stops are not far enough aft with the speedster rib kit. They are about 1/4 inch short of preventing the rudder from hitting the elevator. Mark where the rudder limit tabs should contact the fuselage rudder stops. Drill the rudder stops with a 3/16 bit. Install an AN3-4 bolt on each rudder stop. The bolt head will be the new stop. Use AN960-10 or 10L washers under the bolt heads as spacers to set the limit of rudder throw. [You will need to have the elevator installed to check the rudder limit.]

Speedster kit pre-cover info: Because the slots in the rudder leading edge can allow water to enter the rudder it is imperative that you do an extra good job of waterproofing the wood ribs and painting the inside of the rudder. Be sure to provide limber holes for water to drain out of the rudder. Aircraft without the speed kit have the rudder hinges outside of the covering.

Using the above methods, I have installed and removed my rudder several times in just a few minutes. It is easy and I’ve never dropped a bolt inside the rudder that I couldn’t simply pull up with the safety wire.

I hope this helps a fellow builder.

John Pitkin
Greenville, TX

[southwind32]

Forceps work great, can be bought at Harbor Freight. Been using them for years for hard to get at places.

[DesertFox4]

Make covers for the acces holes. Doing that on my 7SS.

[David47]

Make covers for the acces holes. Doing that on my 7SS.

Yep, very important. Making sealed cover plates once I have the final cutout shape sorted.