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Thread: Flaperon questions.

  1. #1
    Senior Member
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    Default Flaperon questions.

    1st question-Is the flaperon fabric covered or just primed and painted?

    2nd question-The instructions say to rivet the aft edge of the flaperons with 3/32 x 1/8 rivets (part 95001.000) which I did. When I used my hand riveter, it leaves about 1/8 of the rivet protruding on the bottom side. This does not seem right. I would think they should be pulled as flat as the top side. Am I using the wrong rivet? The instructions say that I could use the solid counter sunk rivets, but I am trying to use what KF sent to keep my cost own. Any thoughts appreciated.
    Stan Inzer
    912 ULS
    Dynon Skyview 10"
    N599KF

  2. #2
    Administrator DesertFox4's Avatar
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    Default Re: Flaperon questions.

    Just epoxy prime and paint. No fabric.

    Most have some rivet showing on trailing edge of flapperons. Maybe a 16th inch or less.


    DesertFox4
    Admin.
    7 Super Sport
    912 ULS Tri-gear


  3. #3

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    Default Re: Flaperon questions.

    We felt the same way about how the supplied rivets looked when we pulled a few on the trailing edge of the flaperon, so we drilled them out and used solid rivets. We actually bought some for the job, but afterwards found there were some solid rivets included for other sub-assemblies that would have worked fine, and there were plenty. That said, we're talking maybe a bucks worth of rivets for something that is in a very visible spot. It was also our first adventure with solid rivets which led to more learning opportunities. Over all, we felt it was time and money well spent.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Dorsal's Avatar
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    Default Re: Flaperon questions.

    I did the same as Wiley, looks clean.
    Dorsal ~~^~~
    Series 7 - Tri-Gear
    912 ULS Warp Drive

  5. #5
    Senior Member HighWing's Avatar
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    Default Re: Flaperon questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by inzersv View Post
    1st question-Is the flaperon fabric covered or just primed and painted?

    2nd question-The instructions say to rivet the aft edge of the flaperons with 3/32 x 1/8 rivets (part 95001.000) which I did. When I used my hand riveter, it leaves about 1/8 of the rivet protruding on the bottom side. This does not seem right. I would think they should be pulled as flat as the top side. Am I using the wrong rivet? The instructions say that I could use the solid counter sunk rivets, but I am trying to use what KF sent to keep my cost own. Any thoughts appreciated.
    Stan,
    Like others I used solid rivets with countersunk holes on top. The rivets are available at Aircraft Spruce in quarter ounce quantities. PM me if you want to borrow my spare Rivet Squeezer. Postage both ways only. Or, you might want to spring for the $100 or so for one of your own. I used it for the nut plates, Camloc fasteners and lots of other places where there was access to the back side. If I could use them, they were the rivets of choice.
    Lowell

  6. #6
    Senior Member cap01's Avatar
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    Default Re: Flaperon questions.

    i used an470a rivets on my trailing edge . squeezed them with flat dies on both sides . produces a buck tail on both sides and use a nr 3 rivet and they will hardly be noticed . the flaperon skin is pretty thin for countersinking but surely can be done , i didnt think it was worth the trouble .
    chuck
    kitfox IV 1050
    912ul warpdrive
    flying B , yelm, wa

  7. #7
    Senior Member AirFox's Avatar
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    Default Re: Flaperon questions.

    Stan,
    I attempted to attach two photos of solid rivits that I used on the flaperons. I used a countersink on the top and a rivit squizer. I am pretty happy with how they turned out.

    Scott
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Senior Member War Eagle's Avatar
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    Default Re: Flaperon questions.

    I also used the solid rivets and I dimpled (not countersunk) the skin.

    I ended up placing the rivets every 2 inches rather than the 4 inches the manual called for. It gave me a little more piece of mind in holding the rear edge nice and flat. I had seen some rear edges looking like the glued edge was not always consistent with the 4 inch spacing but looked more consistent with the 2 inch spacing.

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