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Thread: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

  1. #41
    Senior Member Flybyjim's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    If the engine is purchased from Kitfox do they not change this at the factory before shipping the engine? Does this have any effect on Rotax warranty?

  2. #42

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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    When I was at Europa aircraft we had to reclock two of the water pump hose barbs for any 912/914 engines sent out. I did them all with a heat gun and did not remove them completely. The locktite will reseal. We never had one leak later.
    James T
    Valrico, FL

  3. #43
    Super Moderator Av8r3400's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I used a map torch on mine. They may have cooled while you were adjusting try heating again.
    Av8r3400
    Kitfox Model IV
    The Mangy Fox
    912UL 105hp Zipper
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  4. #44
    Senior Member kmach's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I agree, it probably cooled on you .

    When they are hot enough the loctite releases, and you can turn them out with not much effort.
    Kevin,

    Kitfox Outback
    912 ULS
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  5. #45
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I could use a torch. I just don’t want to damage the part. I’ll soak it in alcohol for 24 hrs to soften the loctite then I’ll heat it in an oven or heat gun. Can’t work on it until tomorrow

  6. #46
    Senior Member AirFox's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Jay you could just send it to Kitfox to have it done. Good luck!

    Scott
    Scott Noble
    Kitfox SS7

  7. #47
    Senior Member PapuaPilot's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    If it has red Locktite (or similar) you will need to heat it to over 400 degrees to liquify it. I can't tell what type metal the part is but it should be OK to use a torch or put it in a kitchen oven at 425-450 without damaging the metal.
    Phil Nelson
    A&P-IA, Maintenance Instructor
    KF 5 Outback, Cont. IO-240
    Flying since 2016

  8. #48
    Senior Member Dave S's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Wheels,

    A few thoughts on this thread:

    1)
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronin View Post
    When I was at Europa aircraft we had to reclock two of the water pump hose barbs for any 912/914 engines sent out. I did them all with a heat gun and did not remove them completely. The locktite will reseal. We never had one leak later.
    Heating and reclocking the coolant elbows without completely taking them out, cleaning and resealing may work if you are lucky, or work for a while; however, consider where the water pump is located if the joint failed later. I have seen one of these things work for a few years then start to drip - but it didn't leak at first - and when it did start to drip - it unscrewed without any heat being applied.

    You won't know for sure what's going on unless the joint is taken apart, cleaned up and resealed with the correct permatex product.

    2) The elbow is a bit awkward to get a grip on, one tip is to sand down a dowel so it fits inside the elbow as far as possible to give a person a short handle. Also the wood will not drain the heat away from the joint when trying to unscrew it. Discretion as to the amount of torque used is important. If the dowel bursts into flame - it's too hot

    3) How much heat has to be applied is hard to determine since we won't exactly have a thermometer sticking into the metal to figure that out; but, consider that most permatex products (including the one recommended for his application) have an upper service temperature limit of 300 degrees F. Larry's use of a MAP torch isn't a bad choice to get enough heat on it - trying to figure out how much heat is needed might best be determined by heating the joint while holding torque till it starts to unscrew - then take the heat source away. Propane torch works too. The threads alone don't seem to be much of an interference fit - not exactly like a tapered pipe thread. Once the threadlocker is heated enough, the joint should release. The threads go down maybe 1/2" into the casting so the heat has to penetrate that far too - and, the aluminum sucks away heat really fast. The point a person has to understand is not reefing on the joint when it isn't hot enough is important to prevent damaging the threads- when the right amount of heat is applied, it should come out with not that much effort.

    4) I can't vouch for the temperature limits of the pump seal.

    The first time a person does this - it seems like voodoo - the second time more like science.
    Dave S
    Kitfox 7 Trigear (Flying since 2009)
    912ULS Warp Drive

    St Paul, MN

  9. #49
    Senior Member Flybyjim's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    I received a call Friday that my engine is shipping Tuesday, yea, and after receiving it I am to return the water pump housing to have Kitfox re-clock the water pipes and there is no charge for this service, part of the purchase. I am happy to hear Kitfox is going to do this, I would guess they have done many of them and the re-sealing should not be a worry to me. Oh, and the firewall forward is shipping the same day, moving forward!

  10. #50
    Senior Member Wheels's Avatar
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    Default Re: Changing out a 912 80 HP in a model IV

    Hmmmm, wonder who is lurking on my thread. ha ha.
    I bought the engine from Kitfox, Never thought of asking them to help me do this. I"ll call them. Thanks for the tips. I"m out until after tuesday.

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