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Thread: 670 Rotax

  1. #21
    nlappos's Avatar
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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    The 670 I received had its oil tubes filled with Amsoil and plugged together to maintain priming. To some fools, the amber Amsoil looks like 30 weight, and that can launch a thousand baloney rumors, now resurfaced by Mr Anonymous, TY2068.

    Rotax Rick and others suffer at the hands of people who "were told" and who have no idea what they are saying, but who can slur the reputation of folks with anonymous ease.

    Rick makes clear in all his communications that top end 2 stroke oil is a must on his engines. I can verify that.

  2. #22
    Bluebird19kf's Avatar
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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    I recently purchased a rotax ricks 670 engine. It is wrote in marker on the rotary valve reservoir cap "30w oil." I was under the impression that this should be 2 stroke oil also. I called rotax rick and asked about it. He said that it is indeed 30w oil and that his thinking is that 2 stroke oil is not as good of a lubricant for that valve as 30w. He said you can run either or but if you noticed that it started to use oil out of the reservoir that you should run 2 stroke because it is now burning that oil. He also commented that it is really not necessary to run 30w either as he has not seen any ill effects from running 2 stroke. That is what I was told from Rotax Rick himself.

  3. #23

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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    Well Mr. Nlappos what's the response to that little tidbit of information.... HaaHaa ! I have no idea why you on the defensive about this. My only "angle" was to get to the bottom of this Rotary oil mystery and at the same time give you a friendly-helpful heads up on what "could" be going on with your engine. You could at some point be unknowingly adding 2-cycle mix oil to what is actually 30W motor oil in your Rotary system tank. "They" say mixing different type oils is not a good thing. You certainly don't want to have the Rotary Valve-gear system fail right ?

    I don't endorse or condem Ricks Rebuilds. I've had no personal dealings with him whatsoever. Yeah I've read some bad press but also lots of praise and good things.

    BTW...I very briefly met a guy with a Rick 670 rebuild and the engine was said to have run perfect so far. I did not have the opportunity to discuss anything with him as he was leaving when we briefly talked.

    Thanks so very much Bluebird19kf for the information.
    Last edited by TY2068; 02-19-2018 at 10:14 AM.

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    My mom used to have a repeat a saying that went like this: Be careful of the words you say, to keep them soft and sweet. You never know, from day to day, which ones you'll have to eat. Good advice I think. Even if we disagree, we don't need to be disagreeable. JImChuk

  5. #25
    nlappos's Avatar
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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    Well, I'll have to eat my words, I just opened an email from Rick (I wrote him when this first surfaced) where he does say he ships the new rebuilds with 30w oil (he says he doesn't want them to be dry, as Rotax ships them) and that 30w is better, unless it gets burned. If the level drops, he says just switch to Amsoil.

    So I owe TY2068 an apology, I clearly misread his motives. Sorry TY2068.

  6. #26
    Bluebird19kf's Avatar
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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    Now that we have that out of the way, lol. The next order of business is to decide if rotax rick is painting the inside of his motors. They look nice on the outside but in another post someone posted up about a junk motor where rick had done just that along with using copious amounts of silicon and red Loctite where it wasn't supposed to be. I am contemplating tearing mine apart to inspect because there is overspray on the inside of the carbs that came with the motor!

  7. #27

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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    Forgive me if this is a stupid question, but what's wrong with painting the inside of the motor?

  8. #28

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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    Dave & Bluebird

    My research (yeah I read stuff on the internet lol) indicates that using 30W (or other weight motor oil) in the Rotary systems originated with the racing-recreational Snowmobile guys. After repeated failures of the brass gear and/or seals on the Rotary shafts they started experimenting with better lubrication than 2-cycle oil provides. Evidently much better results were seen in the high temp-stress-rev racing and recreational environments. At some point a few guys in the UL-Exp-PPC and Watercraft worlds caught on to this and started using various motor oils (30W, 20-50 and even heavy gear lube) also. I have yet to determine for sure that new motors from the factory do indeed come with motor oil or 2-cycle oil that "looks" like motor oil. It was said (Here) that new motors are shipped with 30W. I have a gut feeling that's not correct and they are shipped dry or with honey colored 2-cycle oil as was mentioned here.

    One thing I do know for sure is that my engine had motor oil in the Rotary system bottle and I wanted to know why. It was not possible for me to ask the pevious owner of the plane about it. Thanks to this forum and the guys whom provided initial information I now have a better understanding on the subject.

  9. #29

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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    Well Mr. NLappos the apology is accepted and I'm glad you were able to get further info. I probably could have worded my posts differently or explained things a bit more clearly.

    I'm a bit puzzled as to why Rick doesn't explain about the Rotary oil a little better to customers when he sends an engine out. Personally I think using 30W or synthetic 20W-50 (High Zinc content and anti-foaming properties) will do no harm and/or actually be beneficial. Any internal leakage or oil usage at some point would signal a return to using 2-cycle pre-mix oil however. Many would see no point in using motor oil and it is not standard advised procedure anyway. Maybe being that TBO is only 300hrs on 582's for example Rotax calculates that 2 cycle pre-mix is sufficient.

    As far as me being anonymous anyone can send a private message at any time if they what personal info or private contact with a member. Me..I'm just another guy out there who's been interested in flying since the Stork flew me in. I'm PP licensed, high time Ultralight pilot and a Low time Kitfox pilot/mechanic

  10. #30
    nlappos's Avatar
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    Default Re: 670 Rotax

    Just finishing my installation of the 670 in the former 582 mount on my Avid Mk IV, serial number 1174D. Will post photos tonight. Overall, it was cake, the Rotax Rick engine slid right into the 582 mount. The two upper brackets fit perfectly, the 670 case had been touched up where the interferences were, so there was 1/8" clearance.
    I used a Harbor Freight hydraulic lift table, and mounted the engine solo
    The Mike Hair exhaust fits well, and stays inside the lateral confines of the cowl, as shown, but the muffler hangs below the lower OML, so I must trim the cowl bottom to fit.
    The cooling system fits perfectly too. I retained the two nose radiators, and have a belly rad waiting in the wings for summer to come around.
    I put 170 main jets in because I am at 6000 feet here in Utah.
    I fitted an EGT system, and also will install the HACMAN mixture control that I had on my 582 (and which worked quite nicely).
    I have to install a Facet electric pump to boost the fuel flow, since the old flat Mitsumi pump is only 9 GPM, and the 670 draws up to 11 GPM at full throttle. The two pumps in series should exceed that by quite a bit.
    I hope to fly late next week.

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