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Old 05-27-2018, 04:37 PM   #11
Hoenshell
 
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I found this thread and looks like you have to access the nuts through the fabric? Maybe the only way is to create inspection holes? Might be too much work to change color of control rod.

http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/sho...ght=floorboard
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Old 05-29-2018, 12:31 PM   #12
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The previous builder used fabric and sewn in window for the butt rib close out. If you can see in the picture the window has some kind of orange peel, probably from age. It looks like most builders are not going this route?


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Old 06-01-2018, 07:43 AM   #13
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For some reason on my 1993 Model IV, I left the butt rib uncovered. I came to like the look and the ease of checking things out visually during the year without having to fold the wings. The New IV is the same. I recall being able to see the actual fuel sloshing in the tank through the translucent end panel. Just me, I guess, as I see most closing that area and leaving the window for the sight gauges.
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Old 06-01-2018, 08:11 AM   #14
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Shawn,


I think what you are looking at with the fabric covered buttrib and plastic sewn in window is an artifact of the original kit design.


Even our early S7, which predated the time when John Mc Bean owned the company, had instructions in the build manual for the same type of closure. I elected to fabricate light weight aluminum plates for the front and rear rib openings; and, a polycarbonate window for the center section over the sight gauges - which is the design Kitfox now uses. This also provides access to the door hinge bolts which you could not get to with the fabric covered design. I think most of us are currently bonding in aluminum closure between the door hinges between the buttrib and the fuselage frame to close off the outside without using the fabric wrap around.
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Old 06-01-2018, 10:57 PM   #15
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Default Re: Hoenshell's Build

I covered the I/B side of my butt ribs with 0.016 aluminum; cut out the center for the sight glass , then fabricated wing root fairings so I get a good seal at the top of the door.
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Old 06-02-2018, 10:40 AM   #16
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Well, I removed the fabric last night; especially after seeing one in person that used aluminum and poly-carbonate to close off the butt rib. That fabric had to go because of the poor visibility though that window. Thanks for the info guys!
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:10 PM   #17
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What's the best way to open the holes in the horizontal stabilizer for the bolts to connect the struts. It's been covered with fabric and painted; there is a round patch tacked into place over the holes. Is a soldering iron used to open those up or a drill bit or something else?
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:23 PM   #18
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Use a small soldering iron or a woodburning tool with a small tip. Using heat to melt thru the fabric seals the edges so there is no unraveling.
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Old 06-03-2018, 07:39 PM   #19
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Thanks, worked perfectly! Now, if I can just find the right bolts.
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Old 06-05-2018, 10:16 AM   #20
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So I'm working on getting the MIV Bush Gear, 22" Dresser Tundra tires with Grove Wheels and Brakes. That should pretty much take care of the front gear, but what about the back end? This is what I have now. I think I need to upgrade to a pneumatic tire at minimum, but anyone know if this spring is alright? It was an aluminum tailspring upgrade from Kitfox back in the 1999. Do I need to upgrade this whole tailwheel setup?

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